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MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 

CONSTRUCTIVE WORK FOR BOYS AND GIRLS BASED 
ON THE PLAY INTEREST 



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THE MACMILLAN COMPANY 

NEW YORK • BOSTON • CHICAGO • DALLAS 
ATLANTA - SAN FRANCISCO 

MACMILLAN & CO., Limited 

LONDON • BOMBAY • CALCUTTA 
MELBOURNE 

THE MACMILLAN CO. OF CANADA, Ltd. 

TORONTO 



MANUAL TRAINING— PLAY PROBLEMS 



CONSTRUCTIVE WORK FOR BOYS AND GIRLS BASED 

ON THE PLAY INTEREST 



BY 

WILLIAM S. MARTEN 

DEPARTMENT OF THE INDUSTRIAL ARTS, STATE NORMAL SCHOOL 

SAN JOSE, CALIFORNIA 

AUTHOR OF "INEXPENSIVE BASKETRY" 



WITH WORKING DRAWINGS AND ILLUSTRATIONS OF SEVERAL HUNDRED 

VARIOUS PROBLEMS 



Nefo fork 

THE MACMILLAN COMPANY 

1917 

All rights reserved 



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Copyright, 191 7, 
By WILLIAM S. MARTEN. 



Set up and electrotyped. Published February, 1917 



FEB 15 1917 



NorfaooD ^rtgg 

J. S. Cushing Co. — Berwick & Smith Oo 

Norwood, M:i^>.. U.S.A. 



CI.A455542 
I 



DEDICATED 

TO THE 

BOYS AND GIRLS OF AMERICA 

THAT THEY MAY GROW IN THE ABILITY TO MAKE 

OUR AMERICA THE LEADER OF THE NATIONS 

IN CONSTRUCTIVE THINGS THAT ARE 

MOST WORTH WHILE 



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The Clermont 
(Courtesy of Miss Grace G. Parsons, Vocational School, Albany, N. Y.) 



" The value of constructive play as a factor in development 
is an unworked educational mine." 

— Edgar James Swift. 



FOREWORD 

When teaching manual training in the upper grammar grades, I 

announced that a special class would be formed the next afternoon for 

all boys interested in special work. Two dozen applicants p 

met the next afternoon after school. It was agreed that perience with 

we should call ourselves the "Experimental Mechanics," thre.pjj?" 10 " 

that the hours should be 3 : 30 to 5 : 00 each afternoon Interest of 

after school and 1 : 00 to 1 2 : 00 each morning on Satur- incentive for 

days and holidays, and that punctuality would be re- Organizing 

i r . , ill l i • • i i * ne Problems, 

quired tor each boy to hold membership in the class. 

The morning of Thanksgiving Day, Clinton Toms, a son of the 




Work of High Sixth Grade. Crocker Intermediate School, San Francisco, Cat 

(Kindness of Mr. H. M. Bernhardt 

ix 



x FOREWORD 

superintendent of several of the large factories of the city, came in 
fifteen minutes late. 

"Why, Clinton! What does this mean!" I said. "Oversleep 
yourself this morning?" 

"No, sir. I was up before five o'clock. Papa said I must level 
up the front yard this morning, so I got up two hours before break- 
fast and worked until daylight with a lantern fastened to the wheel- 
barrow so that I could come over and work on my glider," was his 
reply. 

On another morning two boys, whose parents did not permit them 
to join the "Experimental Mechanics," came to school quite late. 
Upon inquiry, I found that the boys had gotten up before daylight 
in order to try out in the near-by hills a large glider which they had 
constructed in a neighbor's barn. The glider came to grief, and the 
parents reprimanded the boys when they heard about it ; but this did 
not deter the boys from later building a large-size aeroplane. Every- 
thing was ready for flying the aeroplane, except putting in the motor, 
when the parents became aware of the fact that the boys actually 
intended to fly it ; and it too was destroyed, but in a somewhat differ- 
ent manner from the glider. 

These instances of the interest in "constructive-play" activities 
manifested by the children, which continue so forcibly to come to my 
attention, have been the spur which has prompted me to organize 
such problems in available form so that the boys and girls can con- 
struct them at school or at home. 

All the detailed problems herewith presented cover several years 
of personal work with children in the settlements and the vacation 
schools of New York City and Pittsburgh, and in the regular public 
schools in various parts of the United States. These problems are 
practical for school work because we have tried them out on the play- 
ground and in the school workshop. In thus being tested, faults of 
construction have been found and corrected, and improvements in 
design have been made. I have found that working from the draw- 
ings of a problem that has not been tested by experience is often- 
times a costly experiment. Many of the problems suggested in the 



FOREWORD 



XI 



boys' magazines have simply been worked out of an adult mind ; and, 
when these directions for construction are followed by the boy, the 
object has oftentimes failed to work. Unless the boy is especially 
talented or has some one to help him over the obstacles, the difficulty 
has been so dismaying that it has put a damper on his future self- 
effort. By having the drawings and photograph accompany definite 
suggestions for the construction of each problem, I have found that 
it is possible to have the children at school or at home intelligently 
construct objects that are a source of satisfaction and pleasure to 
themselves. 

I wish to express my sincere thanks to the many friends who have 
so kindly helped me with their suggestions and criticisms, and espe- 
cially do I thank the boys and the girls who have so generously and 
willingly made the various problems that are shown in the photo- 
graphic illustrations. 



WILLIAM S. MARTEN. 



State Normal School, San Jose, Cal. 
October 21, 1916. 




Boats made by a Sixth Grade Class. Horace Mann School, San Jose, Cal. 
(Courtesy of Mr. Louis C. Butler) 




Roller Coasting 




Bowgun Shooting 




Seventh-grade Class on Stilts, Durham, North Carolina 



CONTENTS 

Page 

The Teachers' Point of View xv 

Suggestions about Construction and Use of Tools xix 

Tops; spool, color, butterfly, plug, disc, etc 2 

Cigar box furniture and other problems ; table, davenport, cradle, wash- 
stand, etc 4 

Butterfly and whirligig or flying top 6 

Ring toss games ; with string and stick, and ring and hook 8 

Buzzer and primitive string drill 10 

Garden sticks, sign, trellises, and labels 12 

Kaleidoscopes . 14 

Bean bag games 16 

Rustic furniture ; porch chair, divan, tables, and benches 18 

Eccentric running wheels 20 

Pistol and sling shot 22 

Running wheels '. . 24 

Traps ; figure 4, barrel and box 26 

Boats ; toy rowboats and power paddle-wheel boats 28 

Insect bottles and nets ; butterfly, minnow, and polliwog 30 

Windmills and vanes ; single, double, Happy Jack, Mother Hubbard, etc. . 34 
String and whistling instruments ; zither, banjo, fife, whistle, and humming 

bird 38 

Swings ; porch and playground 42 

Map and post card picture puzzles 44 

Print frames 46 

Jacks ; scissors and dancing and clothespin 48 

Jacks ; climbing and jumping 50 

Jacks ; gymnastic and pole 52 

Lever movements ; clothespin blacksmith boys, chicks with worm, 

wrestlers, etc. . 54 

Knives and daggers 56 

Tip cats or peggies 58 

Peggy bats 60 

Fencing rods or swords 62 

xiii 



xiv CONTENTS 

Page 

Roque and croquet game boards 64 

Solitaire boards 66 

Marble games, rakes or bridge board 68 

Stilts 70 

Shinney and hockey sticks, pucks and shin guards 72 

Bow guns 74 

Swiss dinkey birds with pendulum ; head and tail movements 78 

Swaying figures ; animals and honest woodsman, or sawyer with pendulum 80 

Falling teeter or seesaw, and ladder 82 

Looms for weaving 84 

Root cages or vivaria 86 

Bird houses 88 

Box traps 90 

Ring toss games and quoits 92 

Rattlers and clickers 96 

Aeroplanes and gliders : 100 

Animals with movable parts 102 

Spreader, press, and mounting case for nature-study work 104 

Roller coaster 106 

Tables ! 108 

Morris chairs and cushions 110 

Beds 112 

Garden tools ; rake, spade, hoe, and shovel 114 

Seesaw and sand box 116 

Dolls — jointed 118 

Running grasshoppers with moving parts 120 

Sailboats 122 

Wheelbarrow and wagon 124 

Roller coasters, autos, and wagons 1 26 

Vaulting pole, vaulting or jumping standard, and hurdle 128 

Checkers, chess, and bagatelle boards 130 

Roller looms for continuous weaving 132 

Aquarium, vivarium, or breeding cage 134 

Dolls — jointed 138 

Davenport and chair 1 40 

House plan arrangement 142 



THE TEACHERS' POINT OF VIEW 

It is true that the present existing conditions of school work are 
far from what they should be. Smaller classes, more time and ma- 
terial for constructive work, and better equipment are 
important conditions necessary to secure good results in yiewoint* 
school work, but more important than these are the intel- Concerning 
ligent selection of equipment and obtaining of supplies as Equfpment 1 
well as proper class management. The wise class teacher 
knows that too much individual instruction is as bad, if not worse, 
than the formality necessitated by large classes, that the boys and 
girls should to some extent be thrown upon their own resources and 
left to think out for themselves the solution of their own problems. 
The wise teacher also considers equipment in its application to con- 
ditions. The writer has seen most successful vacation school work in 
poor districts carried on with a very meager equipment, when only such 
tools and materials as entered into the home life of the children were 
available. In other poor localities of the same city where the best of 
equipment was secured, the result was a failure because the tools and 
materials furnished did not carry over into the home life of the chil- 
dren. The result of this well-intentioned but unwise effort made 
the boys dissatisfied with home conditions because the tools and 
materials provided were outside of the reach of the boy in his own 
home life. The best benches and tools were installed, and wood was 
secured from the mill in perfect condition for assembling, rather than 
using improvised benches and making use of packing boxes, cigar 
boxes, old clock works, cereal boxes, barrel hoops, and scraps thrown 
out by industrial plants. 

XV 



XVI 



THE POINT OF VIEW 



In many places the writer has made arrangements with the factories 
to obtain at slight cost materials that were used for the shop work prob- 
Economy of lems. For instance, for the summer school work of the 
Materials. Playground Association of Pittsburgh, Pa., we obtained 
from one of the box factories enough strips of wood, simply at the 
expense of the hauling, to supply all of the vacation schools with 
material to make many problems requiring thin strips, such as toys, 
gliders, and kites. From another woodworking mill we obtained 
loads of the select pieces of scrap wood and supplied this to each of 
the schools. This wood sold for firewood was used to make the 
smaller problems. Children were encouraged to bring in and make a 
collection of odds and ends that served a purpose in this kind of 
work. A list of usable things was brought to the attention of the 
children so that they knew what to collect. The following is a list of 
things from which an intelligent selection will be found useful for this 
work: 



aluminum 


carbons 


feathers 


plaster-of-Paris 


axles 


cardboard 


flowers 


potatoes 


bark 


cardboard boxes 


fruit baskets 


prunes 


barrel staves 


cattails 


glass 


raffia 


berry boxes 


cement 


grasses 


rags 


bicycle parts 


clay 


hogsheads 


raisins 


bicycle spoke 


clock works 


leather 


reeds 


bolts 


cloth 


leaves 


rivets 


boxes 


clothespins 


newspapers 


sand 


box edgings 


copper 


nuts 


screws 


brass 


cord 


old envelopes 


seeds 


broomsticks 


corncobs 


packing boxes 


sheet iron 


buttons 


corset steels 


paper 


shells 


button molds 


cotton 


passe-partout 


shoe boxes 


candles 


cotton spools 


peanuts 


skewers 


candy boxes 


drug boxes 


peas 


soap 


canes 


egg shells 


pebbles 


splints 


canvas 


envelopes 


pins 


spools 



THE POINT OF VIEW 



XVll 



steel 


thin, wood 


twigs 


wheels 


straws 


tin 


vegetables 


wire 


string 


tin cans 


Venetian iron 


yarns 


strip iron 


tin foil 


walnuts 


zinc 


tarboard 


tooth picks 


wood 





Excellent training and economic advantages are gained in making 
use of the odds and ends and raw materials at hand. Storage closets, 
corner shelves, or boxes should be provided in which to keep the 
assortment of various things thus collected. By no means allow this 
storage closet to become simply a pile of junk. Remember that sys- 
tem and order is necessary in caring for all supplies. Even greater 
care is necessary in handling this kind of material. 

The following suggestions will give some idea of possible economy 
in the use of materials: (1) box edging, from box factory, for kites, 
gliders, and thin wood toys requiring strips ; (2) select scraps of wood 
from the woodworking mills for various small problems; (3) hogs- 
heads and barrel hoops and staves, and reeds and cattails, for bows 
and arrows ; (4) tin waste from factories, and tin cans for parts of 
toys, etc. ; (5) orange crates for kites and all thin wood problems ; 
(6) packing boxes for house furnishing rooms ; (7) springs, wheels, 
and old clock works for toys and elementary science apparatus ; 

(8) cereal boxes, candy boxes, etc., for house furnishing problems ; 

(9) cigar boxes for thin wood projects requiring boxes; (10) drug 
packing boxes for ring toss, games, etc. 

To construct the object it is necessary to understand the drawing. 
In order that the boy or the girl may understand the Use of the 
drawing more easily, the photograph and the accompanying Drawings, 
suggestions are offered as a help. To clearly understand an d Printed 
the drawing and printed directions, it is important that Directlons - 
the materials and tools be taken in hand. As the work progresses 
under these conditions the directions will become clear to the worker. 
Some advantages of these drawings lie in the freedom that is pos- 
sible in planning the problems (the dimensions given are intended 
as suggestions only) ; the possibility of individual expression in form, 



xviii THE POINT OF VIEW 

outline, and decoration ; and the possibilities for individual creative- 
ness and inventiveness in the mechanical arrangement of parts 
and movements. 

There are many opportunities for the play of individuality even in 
the large classes if a reasonable amount of time is taken for the prepa- 
Planning the ration of the lesson and for its execution. Almost any 
Lesson. problem can be used as a type, and with it various modifi- 

cations of proportion and outline are possible. With paper and 
scissors in the hands of the pupils, individual outlines can be developed, 
and these can be used as templates or patterns. In thus working out 
the outlines it is important that plenty of time be allowed for class 
discussions of good and bad proportions of the patterns cut. A careful 
leading up to the final results is bound to produce satisfactory results. 
In cases where time for this development is not possible, patterns 
worked out by capable pupils or by the teacher must be provided. 



SUGGESTIONS ABOUT CONSTRUCTION AND TOOLS 

On account of the hard usage the objects made are bound to re- 
ceive, it is important that they be strongly constructed. 

For this reason it is often best to use bolts for fastening parts 
together instead of nails as is usually done. It is well to have small 
dies on hand for cutting threads on wire that can be made 
into bolts. Two sizes of dies will be found to be very con- Use ° f B ° ltS * 
venient ; one, such as is used for cutting threads on bicycle spokes, 
and another one, -J", will be very convenient. Nuts to fit these sizes 
can be purchased at the bicycle shop or hardware store. Dies are 
not expensive, and an assortment of small sizes is most desirable to 
have on hand. If these are not available, an assortment of small- 
sized bolts should be kept on hand. For cutting the wire and bolts 
a hack saw is convenient, but it is not a necessity as the wire or rod 
can easily be broken off by notching on each side with a file and then 
bending back and forth a few times. 

When nails are used to fasten pieces together, two nails should 
be put in at each joint so as to secure or brace the joint thoroughly. 
One nail at a joint only serves as a pivot. To secure a 
very strong piece of work, the nails should be clinched. Use ° f Nails ' 
Common wire nails, because they have large heads, are better to use 
than brads. To clinch nails, use ones long enough for the points to 
go through and project slightly. The nails can be clinched if the wood 
is placed on a flat metal surface and the nails hammered down firmly. 
The points will be forced over by the metal surface. If the metal 
surface is not available, place the work on a block of soft wood or 
locate the nail directly over a hole and drive the nail in place ; then 
turn the work over and with the nail head resting on a solid surface, 
turn over the point and hammer it down firmly. When nails are 
used and cannot be clinched, they hold more effectively if driven in 
at various angles. To prevent slender brads from bending, pinch them 



XIX 



xx MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 

tightly while driving them in. Never attempt to use brads that have 

once been bent. Never drive nails in small pieces or in thin pieces 

without first starting the nails by means of a hole bored slightly smaller 

than the nail. If the piece is to pivot freely, the hole should be slightly 

larger than the nail. These holes are usually made with brad-awls or 

drills. 

In fastening with screws, to obtain efficient results, a hole should 

always be bored through the upper piece to receive the screw. This 

hole should always be large enough for the screw to slip 
Use of Screws. . 

in without forcing. Any binding on the shank of the screw 

lessens the force of its pull. The size of these holes for No. 6, No. 1 0, 

and No. 14 screws should be |", ^", and |", respectively. If soft 

wood is used, it is not necessary to bore a hole into the piece in which 

the point of the screw fastens ; but if hardwood is used, it is necessary 

to bore a hole slightly smaller than the thread of the screw. The 

screw should not have to be forced in hard, else the head of the screw 

is liable to be broken off. A little wax or soap will enable screws and 

brads to go in much easier. When dowels or round rods are needed, 

they can readily be made by planing a stick to nearly the required size 

in diameter and then driving it through a hole bored in a block of iron 

or hard wood. 

Because the brad-awls and drills break so easily, they are very 

expensive. It is unnecessary to use either, since a very effective 

Makine of ^ r *^ can ^ e ma< ^ e f rom a na il or brad. Select one the de- 
Drills and sired size of the hole, cut off the head, and grind or file one 
end of it wedge-shaped, that is, flattened on two opposite 
sides. If better drills are desired, use a hat pin, needle, or other steel 
wire. Save these improvised drills and a various assortment will soon be 
on hand ready for use. They can best be used in the ordinary hand 
drill, but if this is not available they can be used in a brad-awl 
holder or fastened into a piece of hard wood and used as a brad-awl. 
When button molds are too small to be used as wheels, a washer 
cutter should be used to make the wheels. This cutter can be set so 
that wheels any desired size of diameter can be cut out of wood |" or 
less in thickness. 



SUGGESTIONS ABOUT CONSTRUCTION AND TOOLS xxi 

For use with many materials, shellac serves as an excellent cement. 
It can be used successfully with nonporous substances, as metal and 
glass, where glue will not stick. Where a thin coat of Cementing 
shellac is evenly applied as a varnish, it dries very quickly. Materials. 
To use shellac as a cement, apply two or three thin coats ; then when 
partially dry, that is, when it is very sticky to the touch, place the 
surfaces together and keep them in position for several hours. For 
fastening thin materials to surfaces, such as lining the inside of a box 
with silk, first apply two or three thin coats of shellac to the inside of 
the box : then when the shellac is almost dry, that is, when it is sticky 
to the touch but will not adhere to the fingers, press the silk firmly in 
place. The ordinary fish glue which requires to be heated every time 
it is used is satisfactory for use with wood. Liquid glue such as Le 
Page's is satisfactory and is much more convenient. Powdered dex- 
trine mixed with water to the consistency of library paste is most satis- 
factory for use with leather. Library paste is most satisfactory for 
use with paper and cloth. Flour paste can be quickly made by add- 
ing boiling water to flour until the proper consistency is obtained. 
If this paste is desired to be kept some time, it should be boiled for a 
little while, and powdered alum added. A few drops of essence of 
cloves will improve it. 

When possible, have both hands free to hold and guide the tools. 
Never hold the work in the hand if it can be held some other way, 
because, with both hands free to work, better technique is folding of 
possible and less time is required. The vise, bench stop, Work- 
hand screw, and other such contrivances should be made use of. 
Common sense and a due amount of care must be exercised in the 
use of these things, else the work may be spoiled. 

In designing the construction of parts, monotony of proportions 
and spacing of parts should be avoided. A rectangular room is more 
pleasing than a square room, because of the variety in c ... 
width and length. The rail or brace in a chair or table Design of 
should never be placed so as to divide the spaces evenly ; """ 
for instance, if it is necessary to fasten a rail or brace to the legs of a 
table or chair, it should never be put half way between the floor and 



xxii MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 

the top of the table or the seat, but usually below the middle so that 
the space above will be wider than the space below the brace. Also, 
the width of the space should always be either less or more than the 
width of the brace. This same thought must apply to all lines and 
especially to the horizontal lines in the making of all pieces of furni- 
ture. When a finished surface is desired and nails must be used, the 
brads or thin finishing nails which have small heads should be used. 

All of the pieces of furniture should be made strong enough to 
stand the hard usage they are bound to receive. In the design of 
furniture construction all ends which touch the floor should have the 
corners rounded or chamfered to prevent splitting the edges. All 
corners should have the sharpness worn off by the use of sandpaper. 
All parts should be well sandpapered and in some cases stained before 
assembling. If the wood is to be shellacked or stained, care must be 
taken that all roughness and marks are sandpapered out. The furni- 
ture of each room should harmonize in design and finish. It is well 
to stain all the pieces at one time, or at least use the same stain for all 
the pieces of a room. 

Pieces should be sandpapered before assembling, and it is some- 
times best to color them before assembling. Sandpapering should be 
done with a block and always with the grain, else it will show scratches. 
. When finishing, stains and dyes are more satisfactory 

to apply and handle than paint, since the stains can 
be applied, rubbed over, and waxed without waiting for anything to 
dry, while the oil paint takes two or three days to dry thoroughly. 
Oil stains of any color can be readily made by thinning the oil paint 
with turpentine or by mixing the dry paint pigment in turpentine. 
Any shade of brown stain can be made by thinning black asphaltum 
varnish with turpentine. If a dull black is desired, use dead black 
"Japalac." The oil stain cannot be made intense in color as it does 
not penetrate the wood deeply. The dyes and water stains overcome 
this objection. They, however, raise the grain of wood and thus 
make the surface rough. This requires it to be sandpapered. A thin 
coat of white shellac over the stained surface will prevent the color 
of the stain from drying out. Water colors and inks are desirable 



SUGGESTIONS ABOUT CONSTRUCTION AND TOOLS xxiii 

where small surfaces are to be covered, such as when used for facial 
expressions. Good bright colors should be used freely, as they add 
much interest to the use of the things made. If paints must be used, 
the enamel paints are most easily handled because they dry quickly. 
If the natural color of the wood is desired, white shellac is most con- 
venient to use because it dries very quickly, provided the shellac is ap- 
plied in thin coats. The ordinary varnish requires several days to 
dry thoroughly. An outside varnish should be used if the object is 
to be exposed to dampness or to the weather. For this purpose, spar 
or copal varnish is best. 

Since there are so many books already published on the technique 
of woodwork, no regular discussion in processes and the use of tools 
is here intended. For the upper grammar grade, a forge, Machine 
wood lathe, small machine lathe, and bench drill will Tools - 
prove to be a great advantage in giving the boys an acquaintance with 
a number of tool processes that are very desirable, besides making 
possible a greater range of problems. 

At home, every boy should have his own bench. It can be fitted 
up with an iron vise screw costing about 50 cents. With 
a few boards, any ingenious boy can fit a bench up for Home Bench - 
himself. In working, care should be taken that the top surface of the 
bench is not sawed into or cut. To prevent this, a cutting board and 
a bench hook should always be at hand. 

Every boy should have a few tools at home; such as a knife, 
ruler, gauge, saw, try-square, chisel, plane, and hammer. Measure- 
ments should always be laid off with the ruler held upon care in the 
its edge. In laying off dimensions and in drawing lines, Use of Tools - 
accuracy is highly important. A word of caution regarding the use 
of the plane is, \eep the cutter set so as to cut a thin shaving when true- 
ing up surfaces. On each piece of wood, secure a perfect working 
edge and end ; and in laying out, always measure from them or from 
a center line. In surfacing the end grain of wood, plane from the 
edge, but never to the very edge, else it will split. To avoid splitting 
when using the auger bit, always set the work to be bored upon a flat 
surface of soft wood, or as soon as the point of the spur projects, turn 
and bore from the opposite side. 



XXIV 



MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 



The use of the coping saw is a great advantage with thin wood. 
In laying out the work to be sawed, be careful to avoid short-grain 
construction. Where possible, always have the grain of projecting 
parts run lengthwise so that they will not easily break off. In 
putting a blade in the coping saw frame, set the teeth so that they 
point toward the handle. The cutting is done on the downward 
stroke. The sawing is best done on a V-shaped block fastened in the 
vise or to the top of a bench or table. The work should rest flat on 
this block. The saw should have free play up and down about two 
strokes per second. If the work is not held down firmly, the saw 
blade will be bent or twisted and this will cause it to break. When 
turning a corner keep the saw going up and down at a good rate of 
speed at the corner to be turned, and at the same time slowly turn 
the work around into the desired position. Of course, the saw must 
be kept at right angles to the work at all times. 

Never use dull tools. With the use of oil and an oil stone a true 
mechanic and craftsman always keeps tools in working condition. 
Lastly, I would say that the three essentials for satisfactory work are 
common sense, carefulness, and accuracy. 




Fencing. Fencing Rods, Work of Seventh Grade Class, 

Durham, N. C. 

(.Photograph by Author) 




Correlation of Nature-study and Manual Training. Pittsburgh Vacation Schools, Pittsburgh, Pa. 

(.Photograph by Author) 




Garden Tools Made and Used in One of the Pittsburgh Vacation Schools 
(Kindness of Mr. J. Thompson) 



MANUAL TRAINING— PLAY 

PROBLEMS 

CONSTRUCTIVE WORK FOR BOYS AND GIRLS BASED 

ON THE PLAY INTEREST 



MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 



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TOPS. Tops may range from the crude primitive ones used by 
the Indians, to the wonderful gyroscope. The usual methods of spin- 
ning the simpler ones are by means of the thumb and finger, the palms 
of the hands, and the whip cord. Fig. 1 represents the simplest 
kind of a top made from an empty spool. Fit a dowel tightly into 
the hole at the center of the spool, cut the inside bevel down to the 
center, and the top will be ready for service. A round-headed tack 
or escutcheon pin may be used at the point for a plug. If it is desired 
to use a cord with this top, make a holder for it as suggested in Fig. 2. 
Bore a small hole in the middle of the stem to insert the end of the 
cord. This will catch the end of the cord and prevent it from slipping 
around the stem when beginning to wind the top. Wrap the cord 
with the holder in position on the stem of the top. To spin the top, 
place it in position and with one hand grasping the holder pull the 
cord, after which slip the holder off the stem. 

Many interesting variations can be worked out. An outline profile 
made of wire can be made as suggested in Fig. 4. The straight end 
of this wire can be slipped into a hole bored into the end of the stem. 
The rapid movement of the top will give to it an oddly interesting 
appearance. Studies in color combination can be made by placing 
colored papers on the upper surface of the disc. See Figs. 1 and 3. 
Tops made of sheet metal can be made to produce a variety of humming 
sounds by means of openings cut into the surface of the metal. With 
the wooden top this humming is possible to a very limited extent only. 



TOPS 



FIG. I 




TOPS 

scale: 

• i ' [ ' i ■ I ■ i ■ 1 1 1 



TOP VIEW 



fig.* 

HOLDER 

WITH WHICH 
TO USE CORD 



SIDEVIEW FfWrtTVIEW 

i I i 




■oltO 



) — VX--X 

Lzr~ij±:==^. 

STOCK TOR SPOOL TOP 

I SPOOL I DOWEL TO FIT 




FIG. 4 



TOP VIEW 



STOCK 

I TOP 

7a."XV«i"X4/«," "ol« 

I DOWEL 
3//6"DIAM.X4W 



BOTTOM END 




SIDE! VIEW 

TO SPIN 
TWIRL BETWEEN 
THE PALMS OF 

THEL HANDS 




FIG. 3 



TO HAKE COLOR DISC N 
PASTE On DIVISIONS OF 
COLOREP PAPERS 




E5CUKHE0NPI 



HOLE MUST BE 
BORED IfiUE'W 
CENTER AHD ftT 
RIGHT ANGLES 
TO 015C 



STOCK FOR DISC TOP 

I DISC l?& y^¥a"Xlf&' 
I DOWEL 3/fe"0l/\f1X3/i" 



FIG. 6 




flLEOFF^ 

METHOD OF USING SCREW 
FOR PLUG Id TURNED TOP 



Fig. 5 looks like a butterfly (page 7) ; but, when twirled between the 
palms of the hands, drops to the floor and spins in an upright position. 

The ordinary peg top must be turned on a lathe. A screw is used 
for the plug, and the head filed off. See Fig. 6. 



MANUAL TRAINING— PLAY PROBLEMS 




CIGAR-BOX FURNITURE. See page xxi for general sugges- 
tions on furniture construction. 

There are innumerable possibilities in furniture made of cigar 
boxes. The top of the table shown in Fig. 1 is made from one half 
of a cigar box sawed in two lengthwise. The four corners of the 
remaining half of the box are used for the legs. If a table with a pro- 
jecting top is desired, the lid of a box somewhat large can be nailed 
on top of this as shown by the table in the top row of the above 
photograph. 

The davenport as shown in Fig. 2 is made by sawing a box in halves 
lengthwise and fastening the two halves together with the edge sur- 
faces facing each other. 

The rocker cradle as suggested in Fig. 3 is simply made by fasten- 
ing on end pieces cut to the rocker shape. If desired, the rockers 
can be made to fit around the box and fastened underneath. 

The washstand as shown in Fig. 4 is a type of pieces suitable for 
bedroom furniture, wherein the box is taken whole and additional 
pieces such as top or uprights fastened on. A few of such pieces can 
be seen in the photograph. With little modifications most of the dif- 
ferent pieces of furniture, as well as innumerable other problems, can 
be made from cigar boxes of various sizes. 

In the photograph on the lower row, the paper is shown left on 
the boxes. If the pieces are not to be painted, the paper should be 
scraped off after the cutting is finished. This wood splits easily even 



CIGAR-BOX FURNITURE 



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when worked with the coping saw. The paper strengthens it con- 
siderably. For this reason it is well to do all cutting first. When 
dampened the paper can readily be scraped off. If the box is to be 
painted or varnished, let it dry before applying. 



MANUAL TRAINING— PLAY PROBLEMS 




BUTTERFLY AND WHIRLIGIG. The top or wings of these 
problems may be made of wood, cardboard, heavy tin, or thin sheet 
iron. The most successful flyers have been made single as shown in 
Fig. 1 , but with a cross-lap joint they may be made double as shown in 
Fig. 1 of the windmills on page 35. One of the essential elements of 
the butterfly is its lightness. The wings made double afford an excel- 
lent problem in a cross-lap joint of wood, but the necessary wood 
required in lapping the joint is apt to make it rather heavy. If made 
of tin or sheet iron, the two pieces should be crossed and fastened 
together before piercing the hole through the center and fastening 
with a small nail to the end of the dowel. 

Fig. 2 and the photograph give the necessary information for mak- 
ing the whirligig. The whirligigs shown in the above photograph have 
been flown over the top of the schoolhouse three stories high. This 
may be made, also, with double wings, as already suggested. On 
account of the power possible to be obtained from the string and 
spool, the added weight of the cross-lap joint is less objectionable. A 
small piece of wood f " square can be rounded up for the handle and 
a round rod or dowel slightly smaller than the hole in the spool should 
be inserted into one end. Drive small nails into the projecting end 
of this dowel and into the spool and cut the heads off. Make holes 
in the top piece to fit over these nails large enough to allow it to slip 
off easily. Notice that the ends of the top pieces are bent or beveled 
in opposite directions to each other. For the top or wing to fly off 



BUTTERFLY AND WHIRLIGIG 



BUTTERFLY 



TOP VIEW 



END VIEW 



' < \ NH 




A VERY SUCCESSFUL 

flyer when naon 

OFA LIGHT WOOP 

WITH A QUICK TWlfiL. 
OF THE ROD BETWEEN 
THE PALMS OF THE HMD5 
SErtD IT UPWARDS 



FIG. I 



10 



L|J_i 

WHIRLIGIG 



"T 



SIDE. VIEW 



STOCK „ 

IDOWEL^'ROurfDXS)! 
IT0P_7/g"x %"x .S" 



V 





' /-■ 


RED 


WHITE 


SLUE 


1 \ 



OFWQOO, Titter 
CARDBOARD 



V^-^T 5 -'-''''' 




v— FILE HEflJJS 
A OFF B!V\D& 




fe^ 



STOCK 

I HANDLE. _ 3i'K0UllP x 6" 

I SMALL SPOOL. 

I ROD 5IZ.E OF MOLE 111 SPOOL. 

i top i&" x X" x. e>" 



_£3L 



when the string is pulled, it must be wound so that the action of the 
air will force it upward. Alternating stripes of color applied to the 
top piece add much to the attractiveness of the flyers. Flying contests 
create interest in the use of various materials and in good construction. 



8 



MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 




RING TOSS GAMES. The object of this game is to toss the ring 
in the air and catch it on a hook fastened to the end of a stick. The 
simplest form is shown in Fig. 1 . Use a large-sized screw, hook, and 
cord about two feet long. Make the ring of wire, reed, raffia, card- 
board, or heavy cord. For rounding the handle see pages 60 and 61. 

Other interesting arrangements involve forms which can be sawed 
out with the coping saw, such as those shown in the photograph. 
The wire used for the ring should be about |" in diameter. Color- 
ing adds much to the interest of such figures. If the lathe is avail- 
able, this game might be worked into a cup and ball arrangement, 
the ball taking the place of the ring, the object being to catch the ball 
in the cup ; or a small net might be fastened to the end of a stick, the 
object being to catch the ball in the net. Fig. 3 has been suggested 
by Henry Turner Bailey. Here is his description of how a boy of his 
acquaintance .made one : ' He had taken a barrel head and nailed 
cleats across to hold the pieces together. He had covered the smooth 
side with a piece of brown paper on which he had drawn a six-pointed 
star, using a string, he told me, to get it right. Into this star at the 
center and at the angles he had driven long, slim wire nails ; and with 
a pair of pliers he had bent up each head-end at right angles with the 
rest of the nail, making hooks like L's driven head first into the board. 
Under the center nail he had printed 100. The others were numbered 
as you see in the sketch. This circular board was hung on the outside 
wall of the house. We stood about 10 feet away and pitched rings 



RING TOSS GAMES 



r*i 



D 



T 



RING TOSS 



io- 



A. 



FIG. I 



" -, . " 



STOCK I HANDLE! % Ysfe M4-/1 



-(00 




A4 



st — — 

STOCK I HEAD 4-"\!/2."yil%." 





SCALfl 



1 1 ■ 1 1 1 ■ | ' i > | ■ i ■ j m I'M 

5 (C," Zi 




STOCK I 6AP\f\HL HEAD " I CLEATS 
fia : _____ 



at it to see how much we could make. What sort of rings do you sup- 
pose? Rubber rings ! Rings from off his mother's preserve jars." x 



(Note: The above scale has been reduced one-tenth of the original.) 
1 School-Arts Book, January, 1908, p. 439. 



10 



MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 




BUZZER — PRIMITIVE DRILL. Every boy is familiar with the 
buzzer. In the school workshop it can be made the first lesson in 
whittling. Fig. 1 is a disc of wood or metal in the center of which 
are punched two holes into which a cord is slipped. Fig. 2 is a simi- 
lar arrangement in which a rectangular strip of wood is used for the 
disc. *A color disc can be made by pasting colors on the sides ; for 
instance, semicircles of blue and yellow when put in motion will pro- 
duce green. An irregular edge on the disc or holes pierced in the 
disc near the outer rim will produce whistling sounds. 

Fig. 3 is an Indian string drill. A rod is fitted securely into one 
end of a round disc. This disc, when set in motion, is the balance 
wheel which supplies the necessary momentum to the drill. Into the 
center of the end of the rod is fastened a drill point which can be made 
of a piece of steel wire, a hat pin, or nail. A hole slightly larger than 
the diameter of the rod is bored into the center of the horizontal strip. 

To string the drill, bore holes at each end of the horizontal strip. 
Then slip the cord through the hole in the rod and fasten the ends 
of the cord to the ends of the horizontal strip as shown in Fig. 3. 
In the photograph it will be noticed that nails are used to fasten the 
cord. The holes have been found to be more satisfactory. 

To work the drill, place it in position and set it going by spinning 
the disc with the hand. This will twist or wind up the cord around 
the rod. As soon as it is wound up, press down firmly on the horizontal 
strip, pressing down as soon as wound up, which will cause it to un- 



BUZZER — PRIMITIVE DRILL 



11 



BUZZER- DRILL 



EDGE VIEW FIG. I 




STOCK I DISC_d"DIAI v lXK6 











FIG. 2. 




/ 










"CO 


* 


o 


O SIDE VIEW 




V 






r* — 






-4-- , * 



t 



EOGE VIEW 

STOCK l D I SC 3/4" X /a" A 4" 



SCALE 



STOCK FOR DRILL 
I STR I RJH" * %-" * '0" 

I DISC 3"DIAM /n^." 

I ftOD H"DiAn X 7" 




SIDE. VIEW 



JXL 



wind and spin in the opposite direction. As soon as it is unwound, 
relieve the pressure on the horizontal piece and the momentum of the 
disc will cause it to wind itself up again. By thus repeatedly press- 
ing and relieving the pressure, the drill is kept continuously in motion. 



12 



MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 



GARDEN SIGN — TRELLIS - - STICK — LABEL. The garden 
signs are very convenient for indicating the numbers or owners of the 
garden plots. The sign board or crosspiece should be painted or labeled 
before fastening it to the upright. A thin coating of white shellac 

or filler should be applied to the 
sign board before painting on the 
letters to prevent the paint from 
running. If the sign is to be perma- 
nent, to withstand the weather from 
year to year, a coat of spar varnish 
should be applied after the lettering 
has dried thoroughly. 

The upright of the trellis (Fig. 
2) should be made of perfectly 
straight grained wood. Divide the 
1^" width into four equal parts by 
gauging the lines apart. Saw on 
these lines within 6" of the end. 
Spread the strips thus made, and 
hold them apart with a crosspiece as 
suggested in the drawing. Any 
number of strips as desired can be 
thus made. 

The kind of trellis suggested in 
Fig. 3 and the photograph can be 
made with one or more uprights 
and any number of crosspieces. At 
least two nails should be put in 
each joint and these should be 




firmly clinched. In each case the crosspiece should project somewhat 
beyond the uprights. . 

The plant stick should be made long and heavy enough to suit 
the intended use. There should be one or more notches at the top 
end to hold the string in position. The problem as suggested admits 
of quite a number of elementary tool exercises. 



GARDEN SIGN — TRELLIS — STICK — LABEL 



13 



GARDEN SIGN -TRELLIS -STICK- LABEL 



end 

VIEW 



FRONT VIEW 



FRQMT VIEW 



ErtD 
VIEW 



II 



J± 



n 

!' I 






H^ 



ffif 



14- 



FIG. 



*o 



FRONT VIEW 



4 



j. V 

STOCK 

I UPRIGHT I UPRIGHT 

_ I %1' X !/£.". X 3 6" I *i" X;t"X 2.4-" 

ICR03SPIECE. r CROSSPIKE 
4-" X. H" X 14" y+ X'4''A 16" 




~H 



FIG. 3 
V__i 

5T0CK 

I UPRIGHT _*A" X H" X Z4" 

i cr v oss piece _•%." x &." xo^" 

I CROSS PI ECE_^" X '/&" X // " 
I CROSS PI ECE_-$4" X >£" X 8/£" 
I CROSS PIECE _W X >i" X 6" 



END VIEW 



SIDE. VIEW 



SIDE VIEW 



fed 



|*£| g^Mc i'i4 



FIG.4- 



M4J 



"18- 




~vr 



FIS. 5 



view 



STOCh\ 
I STICK —>/%." X K2." X 18" 

<C3> 



STOCK 
I LABE.U_-H"X^. X 6" 



The name of the plant can be printed on one side or on both sides. 
The seed or plant label suggested in Fig. 5 is a suitable problem 
for beginning knife work. If made longer and notched at the top end, 
it can be used as a plant stick also. 



14 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 




KALEIDOSCOPES. A very simple form of kaleidoscope is shown 
in Fig. 1 . Long narrow panels of glass should be used, as length multi- 
plies the reflections and thus produces a more effective kaleidoscope. 
Mirror glass is best, but ordinary window glass will do. Tie them 
into a triangular shape as shown by the second figure in the photo- 
graph. Next cover the outside of the glass triangle with a dark cover 
paper. Seal one end up with tracing cloth or a tough tracing paper. 
Stand on end with the open end at the top and drop in bits of colored 
glass, or other particles. Lastly, paste a piece of opaque paper over 
the open end and punch or cut out a little peep hole. Hold so that 
light will penetrate from below through the tracing cloth or paper. 

Fig. 2 has a revolving end, as shown in the photograph. Select 
a long tin can and punch a small opening in the bottom for a peep 
hole. Cut glass to fit inside the can. To improve the reflecting 
power of the common window glass, blacken with smoke or paint 
on one side. To hold the glass in place, wedge a cork back of the 
strips of glass. Cut a large opening into the end of the lid of the can 
and cover this opening with a disc of glass or tracing cloth. The frosted 
glass for this is most desirable. The frosted effect can be produced 
by rubbing on a paste made of whiting. Fasten this disc securely in 
the lid. On this glass drop bits of colored particles. Now put the 
lid in place on the can and turn it upside down. By revolving the lid 
with the can stationary, an ever changing panoramic effect is produced. 

Fig. 3 is a "duplicator." It is much used by designers. To con- 



KALEIDOSCOPES 



15 



TOP VIEW 




GLASS 



\0 



.-OPAQUE. PAPER 



SIOEL 



VIEW 




60TTOM VIEW 



KALEIDOSCOPES 

FIG. I 

STOCK 

I SIDE PAPER sfc'K 6" 

I OSD PAPER 4-" X 4-" 

I EMI} CLOTH 4-" X 4-" 

3 GLASS STFUPS_I%' * 6" 
SMALL BITS OF COLORED 61465 



SCALE 



T^T 



STOCK 

I LONG ROUND CAN WITH LID 
, 3 GLASS STRIPS TO FIT CAM 
I GLftSS DISC TO FIT LID 
SHALL BITS OF GLASS 



TOP VIEW 




STOCK FOR DUPLICATOR 
2. GLASS 5TRIPS_3"X 5" 



I CLOTH HINGE. 



JS2L 



.1 " x 5" 



FIG. 2 top view 




SIDE 



VIEW 



4- 



! -BITS 0F|6LAS8 , 

- -jj-i-s.a--^.taa.d- 




VIE.W 



struct, fasten two pieces of mirror glass together with a piece of 
gummed cloth or tape. To use, set it on end with the two mirrored 
surfaces at right angles placed around the design to be used. With 
this double mirror a design can be made to multiply itself four times. 



16 



MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 




BEAN BAG GAMES. For bean bag games, hoops of various 
sizes can be fastened together, one within the other in concentric 
circles ; or boxes of various sizes can be fastened one within the other. 
In such an arrangement the throw which places the bag in the smallest 
or middle hoop or box receives the highest count. 

Animal and human figures add considerable interest to the game, 
such as : the figures of persons holding in their outstretched hands 
discs, squares, or objects represented by openings ; or the eyes, nose, 
and mouth cut out of a board as suggested in Fig. 1 . 

To make the board suggested in Fig. 1 , select two pieces the proper 
length and half the required width. Fasten the two pieces together 
with two brads or a handscrew so that it is possible to cut out both 
sides by sawing through the two thicknesses at the same time. Cut 
the openings, and trim to the outline. Take the two pieces apart 
and fasten in position with three battens, one between the nose and 
the mouth to strengthen this part which otherwise would break off. 
To hold the board in an upright position, a rest or leg can be 
attached to the back by means of a strip of leather or cloth used as 
a hinge ; or a nail or wire can be used as a pivot as shown in Fig. 1 . 

In the lower row in the photograph is seen a box in which is a 
wire fastened lengthwise. One or more wooden figures are put on 
this wire so as to revolve upon the wire. The object of the game is 
to strike one of the figures and thus make it revolve. Another arrange- 
ment shown in the lower right-hand corner of the photograph is a box 



BEAN BAG GAMES 



17 



BEAH DAG GAMES 







STOCK 



I LEG 



I x/T *3# 



Z PIECES _4^" / v /l" X Ml" 3 BATTE-NSJ " X 54," X B&" 

-SCALE. 



FIG.Z 



i ' | ' i ' | ' i ' | ' i ■ 
+" ! 



FIG. 3 



TOPVIE.W 



TOP VtCW 



I 


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T 










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j hinge; 












1 




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1 TT 1 


I 





STOCK- One: CIGAR BOX 5'X3\9" 



STOCK _ ONE C'IGM BOX. ABOUT 5"^3"X9" 



fla 



with a sliding cover. By means of this sliding cover the opening can 
be made any size desired. 

The bean bags should suit the openings. The ones shown in the 
top row of the photograph were made 1" square, to use with Fig. 1. 



18 



MANUAL TRAINING— PLAY PROBLEMS 




CHAIRS. See page xxi for general suggestions on furniture 
construction. The type of work herein suggested, if properly made, 
will stand much rough usage. The seat part should be fairly thick 
and requires careful work in boring. The holes should be bored 
until the point of the bit begins to come through. The ends of the 
pieces that fit into the wood should not be tapered, but should be 
trimmed round so as to make a perfectly snug fit. They should be 
fastened in place with glue and brads. For the backs and the legs 
of the chairs, scraps of trimmings can be used. If a rustic effect is 
desired, use twigs of wood with the bark on. The holes for the legs 
should be bored so that the legs will slant outward in both directions. 
The ends of the legs should be slightly rounded or chamfered so that 
the edges will not split when pushed across the floor. The back strips 
of the chair such as in Fig. 1 should be fastened together with two nails 
in each cross-lap joint. Use nails in these joints long enough so that 
the ends can be turned and clinched firmly. 

This type of construction can be used in many other pieces of doll 
furniture such as tables, taborets, and beds. By making the seat 
longer, a divan such as is shown in Fig. 2 can be made. By leaving 
off the back, a stool can be made such as shown above. If a table is 
desired, it must be made proportionately larger. Make it the desired 
width and length, and 5" high instead of 3". It must be borne in 
mind that this type of construction cannot be applied to the larger 
size pieces of furniture, because it is not practicable to have the seat 



CHAIRS 



19 



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proportionately as thick ; and a more thorough bracing is needed 
because of the greater strain proportionately made upon the larger 
pieces of furniture. And, too, it must be remembered that the chil- 
dren demand things made quickly, else they will lose interest. 



20 



MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 




RUNNING WHEELS. Many ingenious lever and eccentric types 
of running wheel can be constructed, a few of which are illustrated 
in Figs. 2 and 3 of the opposite drawing, and also the drawing on 
page 25. With these problems opportunity is given for the study of 
mechanics of the lever and eccentric. The long-armed Goo-goo jacks 
afford an interest to the younger children which is very desirable to 
the manual training teacher. 

If coping saws are not available, the figures can be cut out of 
cardboard and glued or tacked on, as suggested in Fig. 2. If cut out 
of wood by means of coping saws, definite limitations of size and shape 
are necessary so as to obtain good proportion and to avoid short grain. 
Boys can work out their own individual modifications of the figures. 
These are best cut out of paper with scissors first and then traced 
around on the wood. If time is limited, the teacher can work a few 
forms out of heavy paper or thin wood and allow the pupils to use 
them as templates. 

The simplest running wheel is made of a round disc of wood or 
metal for the wheel with a broom stick for a handle. A groove is 
sawed in the end of the stick, as shown in Fig. 1 . 

For the arm to revolve properly, the distance between the pivots 
on the body must always be somewhat greater than the distance 
between the pivots on the wheel. In making the holes for the pivots 
bore with a small drill or drive the nail in very carefully, else the thin 
wood will split. For further directions for this work, see page xix. 



RUNNING WHEELS 



21 



RUNNING WHEELS 



LJ^TIC 



WHEEL. ||K-L0Oaei(^IT "1 | 



PtlAILOR SMALL 60LT OR 5Cft£W TOP VI ELW 




BROOM HANDLE. OR SQUARE! STlCIS 



FIG. I 



SIDELVIEW 
STOCIS I HAM()LE_I"\ l"X36" IWHEEL_6"DIAr\.Xi4" 




WK VIEW 



STOCK. I AR,M_34"XJ4"X/3" I W/1EO__5/i"0/AM.X&" lf00T_^"XJ4"XI/i" 

I LEG_54"A/*."X6" I BODY-i" X 'A- "X 7" I STICK_/" X '/z."X36" I T/N—l" X 3 '/i" 



J»L 



The sliding leg, as in Fig. 3, must not be fastened close up against 
the edge of the stick, but a space of y^ M or more must be allowed. 

For further directions as to construction of running wheels, see 
Running Wheels, pages 24 and 25. 



22 



MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 




PISTOL AND SLING SHOT. Fig. 1 is made by taking three 
thin pieces of wood about 3^" thick, the desired length and width. 
Fasten them together by means of a brad at each end. After sawing 
the outline, take the pieces apart and saw a part out of the middle 
section so that, when the pieces are put together again, a groove is 
left in the barrel and a slot is formed so that the trigger can be set in 
position. The side view of Fig. 1 shows the trigger in position. It 
should be very slightly thinner than the thickness of the middle sec- 
tion, but not free enough to drop down loosely. After the pieces are 
fastened together, the trigger should be pivoted in place with a nail. 

The rubber band is fastened to the end of the barrel by means of 
a brad which is bent over far enough to lock the rubber band in place. 
To cock the pistol, pull the rubber band back so that it is held by the 
notch just above the trigger. 

If the stock and barrel are to be made of one piece instead of three, 
the slot for the trigger must be cut out with an auger bit and chisel. 
The groove of the barrel should be cut out half-round or square. 

Fig. 3 is a trigger in which two rubber bands are used, as shown 
in the upper figure of the photograph. Take care that the upper 
end of the trigger does not project up too high, else the rubber will 
lie too close to the top of the barrel. 

The shaft or arrow (Fig. 2) should be made to fit in the groove of 
the barrel. The rear end should be slit and a paper rudder inserted. 
The forward end should be weighted slightly. A small brad driven 



PISTOL AND SLING SHOT 



23 



. 



PISTOL - SLING-SHOT 



FIG. I 




FIG. 3 



TRIGGER •%"*%"* 2A" 



\ WO\ \ 



FIG X 



IfZ© 



/ PW8F-H/ 



SHAfl 3/ft"DIAri X W 



X 



S1U6BE.P, &«MD 



SIDE VIEW 



STOCK 

I WIRE ^."DIAN. \ 10 

OR 
I CROTCH OF BRANCH 5" 
I RUBBER BAISD-Kx." X\ 5" 
I LEATHER -3/4." /n X." 



SCALE 




FROMT 
VIEW 



O 



into the end will enable the arrow to stick into the target. To pre- 
vent the end from splitting, wrap with fine wire. The wire and brad 
will be enough weight for it to carry itself head foremost. The rear 
end must be notched slightly to catch the rubber band. 



24 



MANUAL TRAINING— PLAY PROBLEMS 




RUNNING WHEELS. Figs. 1 and 2 are long-armed Goo-goo 
jacks that continuously turn around the wheel as it runs along the 
ground. In Fig. 1 the leg which is made in one piece can be fastened 
to the stick, or it can be pivoted at the foot and a block fastened to the 
stick to keep it from falling. In Fig. 2 the jack sits on top of the stick. 
If a simpler construction is desired, the body can be made as wide as 
the stick ; and in this case the leg can be made in one piece. In the 
drawing the leg is made of two pieces which pivot at the knee. A 
washer is also needed at the shoulder so as to bring the arm on a line 
with the outside of the wheel. 

Two pivots are always necessary on the body, one at the hip and 
one at the shoulder. The distance between these two pivots must 
be somewhat greater than the distance between the axis of the wheel 
and the pivot of the eccentric. 

In fastening together it is well to have the parts in position, as 
shown in the drawing. Note that when the stick is in a horizontal 
position the pivots on both body and wheel are directly above each other. 

For the axis of the wheel a small bolt is very desirable, but a wire 
or common nail with the end bent over is satisfactory. If a bolt is 
used, the end of it should be hammered to upset it a little so that the 
nut will not slip off and get lost. A small metal washer or burr 
between all joints that pivot is desirable. Grease or wax will also 
help reduce friction. All the parts that pivot must be slightly larger 
than the diameter of the wire on which they turn. See page xx. 



RUNNING WHEELS 



25 



RUnniMG WHEELS 



5TICK 



FIG. I 




sSD TOP VIEW 



T 

Distance between pivots 

on BODY must BE. 
GREATER THM ON WHEEL 



J 



STICK 



51 DE VIEW 

STOCK I BODY J 3 A" XM-"X 5>/4' 

I STICK l"X^"X36" I ARM V& " X>V'X9>i" 

I WHcXl 4-WDIAttXV I L£G__/>^." X>4"X6!V 




BACK VIEW 



i/i. " X >A-" X 9>^ " 



STOCK I WHEE.I 4/i"DIAM. x !/z" ^THIGHS__/ " X!4"X-3>i" 

I BODY WX.%"X5"' k CALV£5_3A" X)i"X3^" 



J2L 



Before fastening the parts together, paint with bright colors to 
add to the attractiveness of the wheel. The ones talented in drawing 
can paint the facial expressions, or printed designs may be cut from 
cards or the pages of magazines. 



26 



MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 






Trap illustrations by courtesy of U. S. Department of Agriculture. 



TRAPS. The figure-four trap, as shown in Fig. 1 , can be used with 
a packing box, as shown in the photograph on page 90, or it may be 
used with a weighted board as a dead fall. If a box is used, fasten on 
the lid with hinges at one end. This is necessary so that, when the box 
is lifted from the ground, the animal will not escape. If the trap is 
for rats or mice, the box selected should be small so that it can be put 
into an ordinary water bucket. To hold the trap in a set position 
it is necessary that the weight of the box rest on the top of the catch 
piece. A slight movement at the bait end of the trigger will cause 
the set pieces to fall apart and the box will drop with a bang. For the 
traps for the smaller animals the sticks to make up the Fig. 4 should 
not be as large as those suggested in the drawing because, if the sticks 
get caught between the edges of the box and the lid, there will be an 
opening left large enough for the rodent to escape. 

The traps suggested in Figs. 2 and 3 are made by pivoting the lid 
so that a slight weight on one side will cause it to tip down quickly. 
The lid of the barrel should be battened and the edges trimmed off so 
that it will be small enough to work freely within the top of the barrel. 
The bait fastened to one side, as suggested, will tempt the rat or 
mouse, and their weight will make the lid tip, and cause the rodent 
to be dumped into the barrel. One side of the lid should be slightly 
heavier than the other, so that the lid will comeback into position. This 
can be made by fastening a weight under one side, or by pivoting the 
lid very slightly out of center. A stop must be fastened on one side 
of the barrel for the lid to set even with the top of the barrel, and 
one on the side near the pivot to prevent the lid from swinging clear 
around. 



TRAPS 



27 



TRAPS 




STOCK FOR -FIGURE FOUR TRAP 

I TRIGGER y% X H" X8%" 

I UPRIGHT H." * =»/fc" X Sjf 6 " 

J CftTCH 'AT X%" X 5>4.' 





STOCK 



_724" Xx 3^' x IS" 
_7H"X 3/^" X 6&" 
_734"X 34" X. 18" 



STOCK 

I BflRRElLOR KELG 
I BARRELTOP 



2, SIDES 

2. ENDS 

I BOTTOM 

z top (Ends) z 14" x 3 a." x 794" 

l TOP (niDDLEl)_7^8Vx 3 /4" x/34" 
£ STOPS 3/ 4 " X H" X Jt" 



_ffiL 



The trap suggested in Fig. 3 is large enough to catch rats and small 
enough to fit into the ordinary water bucket. The cross-section view 
on the opposite page shows the same construction with a dropping 
lid on each side of the box. See also Box Traps on page 90. 



28 



MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 




BOATS. In making Fig. 1 first shape the bottom piece. Next 
nail the end pieces to the bottom before shaping their edges to match 
the curve of the sides. Note that the grain of the wood in the ends 
runs vertical. This is done so that when put in the water the bottom 
and end pieces will swell proportionately in width. In fastening on 
the sides begin at one end and tack to the edge of the bottom piece. 
Press the side in position and tack down tightly a little at a time until 
the side piece fits up against the edge of the bottom piece all the way 
along. Spring and nail the seat into place. This will help to keep 
the sides in shape. If it is difficult to bend the sides into shape, soak 
them in hot water or steam them, and they will be more pliable. A 
small hole can be bored through the middle of the seat and part way 
into the bottom ; and a small rod put in on which may be fastened 
a flag or a paper sail. 

In Fig. 2 cut out the back f" or j" wider than the paddle so that 
it will not strike the boat. One or two pieces can be used for the paddle 
wheels. If made of two pieces, the middle part must be cut for a 
cross-lap joint. To hold the paddle wheel in place on the boat, notches 
are cut to receive the rubber band. Put the rubber band in place, 
twist by turning the paddle wheel backward ; and it is ready to run. 
The hub or center of the paddle wheel for Fig. 3 can be made of any 
circular or octagonal piece. A large spool will do. With a thin saw 
make the grooves for the sheet metal pieces. The metal must be thick 
enough to hold in tightly, but not too tight, else it will split. Staples 



BOATS 



29 



rap view 



T^ 



BOATS 




STOCK 

j^ _ I BOTTOM _i%"X^"X 7#' 

" i JIM D _ I ^t " xVa"x i^s" 

i eh m" x^'xi^" 

1 5 1 £3_ l % " X ^ " xa#' 
I SOT: W ?W KV/e" 



FIG. » 



I 
I 

I 
—I 



■y)rfe>''" 



SIDE VIEW 



MIDDLE. S'CCTIjOMED 




ri 



SIDE VIEW 
Of" PADDLE. 



STOCK I BOTTOM- H%" X%" X% S" Z. PADDLES_I K&" X '/&" X 2." I F\UBbER6WI> 




side view 



P^PPIJLS 






SfRINO 



-STUNG 



2=3 



HMD VIEW 



3 



STOCK 

I BOTTQ M _ X." X yx" * 7>i" 2. H U 135 _34"X l/i' DIM . 2. BEARING S — J-t" X &"X I " 
3 PADE>LE6_5HI-xriR0M 3 4."Xl" I AXLE_ 4" X Ka" OlftM I STRIP OP SPRING STEEL. 



should be used to hold the axle in place. This can be made of a wooden 
dowel or a piece of wire. The hubs must be secured tightly to this 
axle. A steel spring from a corset will serve for the power. Fasten 
with a fine cord and wind up into the position as shown in Fig. 3. 



30 



MANUAL TRAINING— PLAY PROBLEMS 




NETS AND INSECT BOTTLES. The net as suggested in Fig. 
1 is used for catching all kinds of insects. Every boy and girl should 
have one of his own. By means of it a supply of nature-study material 
can be readily obtained. No. 1 2 spring brass or steel wire 4 or 5 feet 
long should be used for the ring. Put the wire around the end of 
any cylindrical surface about 10" or 12" in diameter, and give it one 
or two tight twists. A broom stick can be used for the handle, but 
it has been found to be somewhat heavy. A light wood should be 
used. 

Several methods of fastening the ends of the wire to the handle 
are suggested in the drawing. Fig. 4 shows a hole slightly larger 
than the wire bored through the middle of the handle about 2" from 
the end. The loose ends of the wire should be about 3" long. Place 
the ends of the wire alongside of the handle, one on each side, and 
turn the points into the hole, previously bored, as shown in Fig. 4. 
To hold this securely in place, put it in the vise, squeeze it tightly 
enough to force the wires into the surface of the wood, and finally 
wrap with fine binding wire or cord, as shown in the drawing. The 
method shown in Fig. 5 is made by twisting the free ends of the wire 
throughout their entire length, which should be about 2" or 3". Then 
bore a hole in the center of the end of the handle,- just small enough 
for the twisted ends of the wires to be forced in. In Fig. 6 two holes 
slightly smaller than the diameter of the wire are bored into the end 
of the handle. Into these holes the ends of the wire are forced. This 



NETS AND INSECT BOTTLES 



31 



MET5 



EMD VIEW or HflrlDLES. WITHOUT filUS 





dc m 




SIDE VIEW 
OF HflrtDLE. 



FIG.7 



TOP VIEW 



METHOD OF Ff\5TEP||in& RIMGTOrtftllDLE. 



STOCK TOR IHSCCT MET 
l-MMMDLE I" A l"X.06"- 48"* tt, SPRING WIRE, I YD. CHE-E-SECLOTH 





FINE riESH NET 



FIG. 7. 



STOCK FOR POLLYWOC 
AND FISH NET 

42" * 12. SPRUNG WlRE. 
3 SQ. FEET FINE ME5I1 NET 



FIG.3 



t^NiocorpoTAsaW" 

Po »HOII5 Tfl CREfWtE I _ n_flSTf-IVor-P^ 

Ife^S^f - 5AW DUST 

•^^LpoTfl&SlUn CYANIDE. 



STOCK FOR INSECT DOTTLE 
I LftRGEl MOUTHED BOTTLED 
I OZ. POTASSIUM CYANIDE. COVERED 

WITH SAWDUST AI1D PLASTE.R.-OF- PARIS 



M. 




FIG. \ 



and the one previously suggested should be wrapped very firmly with 
binding wire so as to hold the ends of the wire more firmly in place 
and to prevent the handle from splitting. Sometimes these types are 
made so that the handle can be slipped on and off as desired. Fig. 7 



32 MANUAL TRAINING— PLAY PROBLEMS 

allows for this very readily. The ends of the wires are wrapped 
very tightly around a round stick in the form of a spiral. This cuts 
a thread or a spiral depression so that the handle can be screwed on 
and off as desired. 

Mosquito netting can be used for the net, but cotton tulle or 
cheesecloth lasts much longer. A narrow strip of heavier cloth such 
as muslin should be sewed around the wire ring and the lighter cloth 
sewed to this. Dr. Hodge suggests that the depth of the bag be a 
little more than twice the diameter of the ring, so as to lap over and 
close well when an insect is caught. 

The insect bottle (Fig. 3) has been suggested by Dr. Hodge. He 
says : ' To preserve your insect, you must first kill it without injury 
and this is best done with a cyanide bottle. Get a wide mouthed 
bottle and a good cork to fit it tightly. In the bottom put an ounce 
of potassium cyanide broken into lumps not larger than a filbert ; 
add sawdust a little more than enough to cover the largest lumps and 
pour in plaster of Paris, mixed to a consistency of thick cream, to 
form a layer a quarter of an inch thick. The plaster will harden in a 
few minutes, and an insect dropped in and corked up will die almost 
instantly and without injury or apparent suffering. What kills the 
insect is the fumes of the cyanide coming through the plaster and 
saturating the air within the bottle ; hence, avoid breathing any of 
these fumes yourself and keep the bottle tightly corked at all times. 
The cyanide is a deadly poison, and the fact that it is a harmless- 
looking white substance, not unlike lump sugar or rock salt and many 
other things, renders it one of the most dangerous poisons to keep 
about the house. (Label the bottle as in Fig. 3.) Such a bottle 
will remain good for a season. If moisture collects in it, wipe dry 
with blotting paper or a soft cloth. 

" Insects may be killed with chloroform. If this is preferred, get 
an ounce of it in a flat vial ; stick the handle of a camel's hair brush 
into the bottom of the cork ; and, holding the insect in a fold of the 
net, apply a drop of chloroform to each side (for insects breathe 
through a row of minute holes along the sides), and the insect dies 
instantly. 



NETS AND INSECT BOTTLES 33 

"Ona collecting trip you will also need a newspaper, in which 
the insects may neatly be folded without breaking the wings or 
legs." 1 

A word of caution as to the purpose of catching insects will not 
be out of place here. The collecting should not be the aimless catch- 
ing of any flying thing that happens to attract the attention, but the 
aim should be to learn to know the important things about the most 
important insects, to know about those which are destructive and those 
which are beneficial. Dr. C. F. Hodge, in the chapter Plan for Insect 
Study, of his book Nature Study and Life, suggests : that we collect 
insects and study them so as to be able through favorable conditions 
to propagate and make use of the insects that are beneficial to combat 
and destroy those that are injurious. 

On account of the peculiar development of insect life it is necessary 
to understand the life story of the insect, which means all the changes 
it goes through from the time it hatches from the egg to the time it 
dies. Most insect eggs like the caterpillar hatch out quite differently 
from the parent and then go through several stages of development 
before the adult insect appears. With the destructive insects it is very 
necessary to know the whole life story so as to find their weakest point, 
that we may most easily destroy them. With the beneficial insects 
this knowledge is necessary so that we may develop and propagate 
them. 

A fine mesh fish net is most suitable for the minnow and polliwog 
net shown in Fig. 2. This can be purchased at any sporting goods 
house. The net should be slightly less in depth than the diameter of 
the net so that it can readily be inverted over the bucket to receive 
them. 

A ring of wire must be made on which to fasten the net. It can 
be fastened to a ring with a handle, as previously described for the 
insect net, but it is more convenient to have it fastened by a cord, 
as shown in Fig. 2. By a cord, the net can be lowered into the water 
and quickly and quietly lifted up, whereas the wooden handle of the 
net is liable to frighten away the fish and polliwogs. 

1 Hodge, Nature-Study and Life, pp. 51-52. 



34 MANUAL TRAINING— PLAY PROBLEMS 



- — M — L 1 i i nJ ^^ 





WINDMILLS AND VANES. Windmills admit of a great variety 
of possibilities in construction and in the use of materials. The con- 
struction and material must be such that they will not be affected by 
sun or rain. The propeller (Fig. 1) involves modeling with the knife 
and a cross-lap joint. The shaft can be planed up octagonal or round, 
as described in Figs. 4, 5 and 6 on page 61, and the vane can he cut 
out with the coping saw. 

A one-piece propeller with but two projecting blades or wings can 
be used as seen in the photograph. This would be the same as Fig. 2 
without the middle groove cut out. If two pieces such as Fig. 2 are 
made and put together a cross-lap joint construction such as is shown 
in Fig. 1 will be the result. The blades should be marked out but 
not whittled until the cross-lap joint is made and the glue dry. Pro- 
pellers with as many as six or eight blades can be made, but the cross- 
lap joints required for such ones are very difficult to make. 

The hub propellers are very much easier to make than those just 
described. They can be made with any number of wings. Figure 5 
is a four-winged propeller. After cutting out the block for the hub, 
saw grooves obliquely into each edge at least ^ M in depth and just 
wide enough for the wings to fit. Fig. 6 is a drawing of the wing 
blade, and Fig. 7 is a drawing of the hub. Care must be taken that 
the wings are not forced in, else the hub will split. If six or eight wings 
are desired, make a hexagonal or octagonal hub and saw grooves. 
The grooves should have the same slant on all sides. 



WINDMILLS AND VANES 



35 



WINDMILL AMD VANE 



END VIHVx/ 



SIDE VIEW 



FIG., 



Y3ZZ13 : f 



scale: 

i , l , "l , r 




^^/v^, 



FIG. 3L 



STOCK 

2. WINGS V S " \ i/j," X4-J4" 

I SHAFT 34." * %" A 5 " 

i vane sv-c k v&" k a " 

I UPRIGHT • 3 /8"0iAI > l- * 4- " 



FIG. 3 




# 






WING 



SHAFT 



•SLOT- 
FOK VANE 



FIG. 4 



FIG.5 




METAL PROPELLER 



]::/• 



stocis 

I HUB 

IV x !•£" KI&" 

4 WINGS 
Ike" A. !/a" Xi%" 



I 1 HUB 

HUB PROPELLER FIG. 7 



TOP VIE.W 



<£— I 



>t 



'I A l °* 

|_1 



FIG. 6 



5CALEL 



^a - " 
^ 



UL 



WING 



EHD 5I0E.VIEW 



M 



A metal propeller can be made very much more readily than one 
of wood. The metal must be fairly stiff so as to hold itself in shape. 
Sheet iron about No. 22 gage " American Standard " is very desirable. 
The simplest two-blade propeller can be made of a narrow strip of 



36 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 

metal with the ends bent, similar to the propeller first suggested. If 
four blades are desired two strips can be lapped, but unless they can 
be soldered it is much more convenient to use a round disc of metal. 
Divide the disc up into the desired number of parts ; then cut on the 
radial lines toward the center, leaving enough metal for the hub. Bend 
all the blades into shape. Figure 4 shows the front and side views of 
an eight-blade propeller after it is bent into shape. 

If a right-hand movement of the propeller is desired, make as 
shown in the drawing. Sometimes a double windmill is made as can 
be seen in the center of the photograph. Two propellers are used, 
one right handed and the other left handed. When both are in motion 
on the same shaft, a peculiar effect is produced because they run in 
opposite directions to each other. 

The best method of fastening the propeller to the shaft is by means 
of a round-headed screw. If the propeller is of wood, a washer should 
be used under the head of the screw. This will prevent the screw 
from eating its way into the wood. A washer should also be placed 
between the back of the propeller and the end of the shaft. The screw 
hole and the parts that rub should be well waxed to prevent friction. 

A number of methods can be used to fasten the shaft to the 
upright, the most common of which is by means of a round-headed 
screw running down from the top of the shaft into the top of the 
upright. This arrangement is the same as that used to fasten the 
propeller to the shaft. Just at what point to fasten the upright to 
the shaft cannot be determined until the propeller and the weather 
vane are fastened in place. The point on the shaft where the whole 
thing balances evenly is the place to bore the hole for the screw into 
the upright. Another method of fastening the shaft to the upright 
is that suggested in Fig. 1 , where the round end of the upright fits into 
a hole bored into the under side of the shaft. In each case the upright 
can be fastened to the top of a post or nailed to the side of the house. 
Another method sometimes used is to fasten the shaft securely to a 
round upright and to drop the end of it into a round hole. 

The vane can be cut to represent almost any form desired. The 
greater width should be at the windward end. The vane can be made 



WINDMILLS AND VANES 37 

of any stiff material not affected by the rain. A thin wood is satis- 
factory, but light sheet metal is better. To fasten it in place, saw a 
groove in the end of the shaft, slip the vane in place, and nail it securely. 
The windmill and vane painted in bright colors adds much to their 
attractiveness as well as durability. 

A number of windmills can be seen in the photograph, ranging 
from the pin wheel to the Mother Hubbard and Happy Jack windmills. 
The blades of Mother Hubbard's umbrella are sawed out with the 
coping saw and the ends whittled round and inserted in round holes 
bored in the hub. Mother Hubbard is the vane and revolves 
herself around the dowel which goes through the piece on which 
she stands and rests in a hole bored partially through the piece 
just above it. 

The Happy Jack windmill has the extended arms fastened together 
on a wire which freely revolves in a hole bored through the shoulders. 
The blades should be glued in, one lengthwise and the other almost 
crosswise. A hole is bored up through the feet, made to fit a nail 
hammered up through the block, so that " Happy " can freely spin 
around on this upright pivot. 

In school work much interest and enthusiasm can be worked up 
through competition in the construction of windmills and vanes. 
Among the older pupils awards can be made for originality of con- 
struction, beauty of design, and durability. For the younger pupils 
a simple construction can be determined upon and original designs 
for the outline of the vanes may be asked for. Definite limitations as 
to maximum and minimum sizes should be given. Have the designs 
cut out of paper with the scissors. Definite suggestions as to appro- 
priate forms such as birds and boats should be given. The best shape 
can be used, or each one may use his own design provided it is good. 

The important thing is to see that the windmills work. Test 
them out ; see that they work properly. Get the boys to put them 
up. Have them raised on poles, or put on the top of barn or garage, 
where they can be a constant source of pleasure to the makers. Boys 
thoroughly interested in this problem may make several different 
kinds and put them up as in competition one with the other. 



38 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 



1 # ] 


■ lll„l,ll m 


Li It ^S^, 1 


1 • • o 

<3 <* 2 




m ) — 


J. " 5aS * 



STRING AND WHISTLING INSTRUMENTS. All of the prob- 
lems shown in the photograph were made by young children in 
taking up the study of sound. The zither, suggested by Fig. 1 of the 
drawing, is made to obtain varying tones. Seven tones were pro- 
duced by means of seven lengths of wire, cord, or cat-gut strings. Any 
number of tones can be produced by using various lengths. 

Another method of getting various tones is by having the strings 
the same length and varying the thickness of the strings. In this 
case the box can be made rectangular. Silk thread can be used. 
The varying thickness of strings can be obtained by taking the desired 
number of threads, and twisting them together. 

To make the instrument suggested by Fig. 1, first make the box, 
fastening it together with glue and very thin brads. Extreme care 
must be used in putting the brads in this thin wood, because the wood 
is liable to split. It is well to fasten the bridge and the corner piece 
to the top before putting the top on the box. When two or three 
lengths of strings only are used, a large round hole or several small 
holes, one for each wire, can be used. This is shown in the photo- 
graph. If several strings are used, it is best to cut the hole oval in 
shape, as suggested in Fig. 1. It is well to make the bridge of hard 
wood. If more resonance is desired, a steel wire such as a hat pin 
can be embedded in the top edge of the bridge. This is shown in the 
drawing. The tuning pegs, used to keep the strings taut, can be 
made ; but it is more convenient to buy them at a music store, where 



STRING AND WHISTLING INSTRUMENTS 



39 



STRING AMD WHISTLING INSTRUMENTS 




wme-^, 



-bridge: 



CORNER PIECES 

aioEi vi ew 



STOCK 2.TOPS—6" X^VxIi" I BRIDGE! %"X}4"X4" 

I END 1-34" X^4"/v5^" I SIDE_I34"X,%"XI2" I CORNER riECE-^'x^j'kS^' 

LEND |34-"X-%"X6)^" I SIDE._W*%"xa" 7 TURNING PEGS AND WIRES 



H" 



-8^ 



■^/'-J^./4 



14- 



o o o ~o 



END 

VIEWS 



STOCK ■ I- BAMBOO ABOUT 14 "LONG - Z. C0KK3 FIG.Z 



FIG. 3 



[n: iv:::::" 



STOCK I BAMBOO ABOUT 6" LONG 



Jft. 



they can be obtained at little cost. If the pegs are made by hand, be 
careful that a long taper is made, otherwise the sudden or short taper 
will not hold in firmly and is liable to split the thin wood. 

To string the instrument, first fasten the ends of the strings to 



40 MANUAL TRAINING— PLAY PROBLEMS 

brads located at one end of the box. The other ends of strings are 
passed through the holes in the tuning pegs. The pegs are then put 
in position and wound up until the strings are taut. The drawing 
shows one of the pegs only in position. The peg is tapered so that 
when pushed in firmly, it will not slip around and slacken the string. 
The corner piece is put in to strengthen the wood so that, when the 
pegs are forced in, they will not split the top piece. 

A much simpler, but less effective, apparatus can be made by using 
a solid block of wood instead of the box ; and nails instead of the tun- 
ing pegs, the wire being pulled taut and then tied securely to the nail. 

A banjo effect can be produced by attaching a handle to a cigar 
box, as shown in the photograph. The end of the handle is fastened 
to the inside of the cigar box lid, and the end of the box cut away so 
as to allow the lid to shut down tightly. 

Fig. 2 is the drawing of what the boys please to call a " Fife." 
The one shown in the photograph is made of one length of bamboo. 
One end is plugged up tightly with a cork to form the air pocket. If 
the bamboo is cut so that the joint comes at this point, the cork is not 
needed. The opposite end must have a plug of cork or wood fitted in 
it. Before fastening this plug in place, cut one side of the plug -flat, 
as shown by the end views of Fig. 2. This plug is fastened in 1|" 
or less from the end. Next cut a notch in the bamboo on the same side 
as the flattened part of the plug. Also bevel the back off, as shown 
in the drawing. As the cutting proceeds, test by blowing. Stop cut- 
ting when the desired tone is obtained. By varying the size of the 
opening, the notch, and the chamber, different tones will result. The 
small holes shown in the top near one end are intended for the fingers. 

The ordinary whistle is made in the same way, as already suggested 
by Fig. 2, except that the chamber is made very much shorter. If 
bamboo is not available, a piece of soft wood with a hole bored in it 
can be used, or a piece of willow with good strong bark on it may be 
used. If a pea or other round substance is put in the chamber before 
fastening in the plug, a peculiar vibrating tone is obtained. 

A " humming bird " is suggested by Fig. 3. A piece of bamboo 
is cut off at the joints, or the ends are plugged up with corks. Long, 



STRING AND WHISTLING INSTRUMENTS 41 

narrow slits are cut in two sides, and a string is fastened to one end, as 
can be seen in the photograph. When this is swung around in the air 
rapidly, a peculiar whistle or humming sound is produced. The tone 
will vary according to the size of the chamber and the open slits. 

From such crude beginnings boys and girls have been led to make 
instruments of value. For high school students ukuleles, zithers, and 
banjos can be worked out, as shown in the illustration below. 

The best plan is to obtain an instrument of simple strong con- 
struction and use it as a model to pattern after. Thin mahogany ve- 
neer for the box part or other hard resonant wood can be obtained 
from the mill. The piece for the sides is thoroughly steamed or soaked 
in hot water and then clamped into the curved shape between two 
pieces of wood, one the exact shape of the inside of the box part 
and the other the outside shape of the box. This outer piece must, 
of course, be in two parts split down the center. After the wood is 
thoroughly dry, the clamps can be removed and the piece will retain 
the shape into which it has been pressed. 

Pieces about J" X J" must be glued securely to the top and bot- 
tom all round the inside corners so as to keep it from warping. Fasten 
securely the top and bottom to the sides. Nails must not be used. 
The opening must be cut, and the corner pieces and bridge must be 
fastened in place before putting together. 

An ingenious instrument is made thus : Fasten a fine wire or guitar 
string lengthwise to a board. Fut a strip of wood at each end to ele- 
vate the wire about £". Stretch it taut with a tuning peg. To play 
on it, take a cigar box with lid or one end removed. Rub the open 
edge of the box on the string. Rosin will help. With a little prac- 
tice interesting and amusing effects can be produced. 




Ukulele made by High School Student 



42 



MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 



SWINGS. For the construction of swings hard wood is prefer- 
able. The child's swing, Fig. 1, is for young children. If less work 
is desired all the strips can be made straight instead of curved. 

The holes in all the pieces should be slightly larger than the diameter 

of the rope used. With |" rope 
the holes should be^ M in diameter. 
Notice that the holes in all of the 
pieces(Figs.2,3,4and 5)aref" from 
the ends, while from the sides they 




are but ^". This is done to obtain 



equal strength all around, the short 
grain at the ends being weaker than 
the grain at the sides. The work 
should first be laid off and the holes 
bored (fasten in the vise while boring 
the holes to prevent splitting) before 
cutting to the outline. After the 
bottom or seat piece is laid off, test 
to see if it is square by measuring 
from corner to corner. The length 
of the two diagonals should be ex- 
actly the same. Next, lay back, 
front, and side strips on the seat piece 
to see if the holes and outlines match 
up. The holes can be bored and the 
outline drawn with these pieces thus 
in place. The uprights are made 
from a piece of bamboo. I f this bam- 
boo is not at hand, use cotton spools ; 
or use straight grained soft wood. 

Select a piece about 1" square, saw four pieces off the proper length, 

bore a |" hole through them lengthwise, and then round them up. 
When setting up the swing, the rope should be knotted as shown 

in Fig. 1, or slipped all the way across as in Fig. 7. When knotted 

it will always remain level if properly set. 



SWINGS 



43 



FIG.1 



top vie: w 

SCALE 



BOTTOM 



SWINGS 





FIG. 3 




s: 



3i 



-IX 



■14- 



® 



FRONT 



to 



is: 



FIG. 5 



^ 



UPRIGHTS 



side: 



STOCK 

2. SIDES IJ4-"X3-^" X9.H" 

4- UPRIGHTS I" DIAH XS">V' 



I BOTTOM. 

I BACK 

I FRONT- 



JO" X Mi" XI4>i" 

l%" K%'" X 14- " 
.1 '-4" X 3^," X 14- " 



FIG. 7 



-ROPIu 



-16- 



'4 MM— 



^;:;i!' 



IxMD 



H 



«-B<WTEM 
"(0 

JL_ 



TOPVIE.W 



! 1 



SEAT FOR ROPE. SWING 



m 



Fig. 7 is a seat for the ordinary rope swing. Batten pieces should 
be fastened underneath across each end. The sharp corners of the 
wood should be rounded off wherever the rope touches it, to prevent 
cutting the rope. 



44 



MANUAL TRAINING— PLAY PROBLEMS 




MAP AND POST CARD PICTURE PUZZLES. The educa- 
tional advantage of this puzzle lies in its possible correlation with 
geography and history. The sawed lines can be the boundary lines 
of states and counties or townships, or the pieces can be sawed so that 
one or more cities may be located on each piece. 

Before making the frame, paste or glue the picture securely to a 
thin board not more than |" in thickness. While drying press it flat. 

The frame to hold a post card 3| M X 5i" is shown in Fig. 1. The 
bottom of the frame should be about | M larger all around than the card ; 
for instance, the bottom piece of Fig. 2 must be 4^ M X 6|", thus al- 
lowing \ u for width of rim all the way around the frame. After 
making the bottom piece, cut out the strips for the rim, which should 
be the same thickness as the piece upon which the card is mounted. 

To assemble the parts, first glue and nail one side and one end 
strip to the bottom piece ; then slip the card into place ; and next 
nail the other side and end strips on the bottom piece. Use nails 
long enough so that they can be clinched. With the larger frames 
battens are necessary to keep the bottom piece from warping. 

Unless the state or county boundaries are to be followed, care should 
be used so as to avoid short grain, so that the projections cannot easily 
be broken off. For directions in the use of the coping saw see page xxiv. 

The post card box (Fig. 2) is the type of box construction in which 
the butt joint is used. In a box construction the sides of the box 
should always be the entire outside height and the entire outside 



MAP AND POST CARD PICTURE PUZZLES 



45 



MAP AND POST-CARD PICTURE PUZZLE 



FIG. I 



MAP OR POSTCARD TO BE SAWED 
INTO SHALL PIECES 



TOP VIEW 



i i 



T~ 



I 






m 



KiH- 



^*TT 



"M23" 






side: view 

STOCK 2. EMD STRIPS— >t"x M"* 0&" 

I BOTTOM 4>i" X !4-"x 6j£' 2. SIDE. STRI PS _ /*." X H-" * 6 >i" 

I BOARD FOR CARD _ d&" X >4"Xft£" 2. BATTENS /a." X &." X 3^." 



FIG, 2. 




SCALE. 



i ' r > ' •,; i ' i ■ ' ' I 

2 ■ « 



POST CARD BOX 

STOCK 

2. EMDS _ 2," \ &" K5%" 
2. SIDES— V KJ4-"K64" 
I B0TT0n_5% K #'*%" 

scale: 



1 1 • j ■ i ' 

< 3' : 



_£L 



length ; the bottom piece should be the inside width and the inside 
length ; and the ends should be the entire outside height and the inside 
length of the box. The bottom always fits inside, and the end pieces 
fit in between the side pieces. 



46 



MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 




PRINT FRAMES. Printing frames can serve a variety of pur- 
poses, especially in connection with shop work, nature-study work, 
and photography. The frame shown in the photograph contains 
prints of leaves used in making a collection of leaf prints. The frames 
in Figs. 1 and 3 are designed for 5" X 7" print paper. The inside of the 
frame should be at least f " larger each way than the paper to be used. 
If larger frames are made, the material should be proportionately 
heavier, and the back should be made of two pieces hinged in the 
middle with a batten fastened to each piece. The middle frame in 
the photograph shows the back in position with the rubber band 
holding it in place. If desired a piece of spring steel in place of the 
rubber band can be used for the larger frames. Fasten the strip of 
steel to the top edge of the batten, and adjust so that the ends will 
slip under the head of round-headed screws or slits made in the edge 
of the frame. 

The simplest construction for the frame is made by simply nail- 
ing the several pieces together as shown in the center of the above 
photograph and in Fig. 1. If nails which are slightly longer than the 
thickness of the frame are used, the ends can be turned and clinched. 
This fastens the two strips securely together. 

If advanced technique is desired, any one of a number of joints 
can be used in putting the frames together. The simplest joint is the 
end lap joint as shown in Fig. 3. Glue and screws, or nails clinched, 
should be used to secure a strong joint. With the large frames a piece 



PRINT FRAMES 



47 



a: 

s 



PRINT FRAMES 

FIG. I 



&<£ 






-ik- 



TOP VIEW 



^1* 



.1 



■8f 



view 



si de: vielw 

STOCK 

2. FRONT ENDS I" K J^" x 4" 

2. BACK ENDS W X %" X 6,%" 

Z. FRONT SIDES l" x. /a" -x 8;%" 

k BACKSIDES ^A" X %" X 7/fl" 

I BACK 5-" X. 3/a" X7" 



I BATTEN 
I GLPiSS__ 



J&' X 2/e>" *4-%' 
.«f" x 7 



I AUBBEFt BAND 



IqOQ 



FIG. 3 

ft 



•napptT ^° 



-^- 



TOP VIEW 









i] 



•h- 



E.flp 

vi aw 



SIDE VIEW 



FIG 2. 



f- 



ZE1 



TOP VIEW 



-5- 



E1ND VIEW 



SCALE 



I ' I, 
4- 



T 




STOCK 

2. ends___%"x j^ 1 x 6%" 
* SIDES_%"x &" x d%" 
I BACK_5""yv %" x 7" 

I BATTEN, I ^'x^" X 4-?%" 



HMD LAP 

uoirrr 




/KA 



of felt is usually used. This is placed next to the paper so as to hold 
the paper firmly against the tracing or negative. The felt is some- 
what expensive. If it cannot be used a piece of cardboard or heavy 
cloth or paper will take its place very satisfactorily. 



48 



MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 



SCISSORS AND DANCING JACKS. The scissors jack (Fig. 1) 
is put together by first marking the position of the nail holes and 
starting the nails ; and then by laying all the pieces down in position, 
and driving in the nails. Be sure the ends line up evenly as shown in 

the drawing. The nails should be 
■§" long, that is, long enough for the 
point to go through and to be 
turned over and clinched. Care 
must be taken in driving the nails 
in lest they split the wood at the 
ends. Reject all pieces that start 
to split. If considerable care is 
used holes can be bored in the foot 
pieces without splitting. These 
holes can be used in which to insert 
the thumb and finger. Any even 
number of body pieces can be used. 
The ones in the photograph show 
four only, while six are shown in. 
the drawing. If desired the jacks can 
be clothed with a flowing robe, and 
a facial expression can be painted 
as suggested in the photograph. 

The string jack (Fig. 3) shows 
a very simple modification of out- 
line. The shape of the parts of the 
body are produced by a few notches. 
Fig. 3 shows a view with the front 
body piece removed so as to make 
the arrangement of the parts clear. 
The position of the arms and legs shows the strings pulled down 
until the arms and legs are in a horizontal position. The strings 
can be fastened to the ends of the arms and legs through holes 
as suggested, or to nails fastened in the ends of the pieces. Follow 
the directions for fastening as suggested in Fig. 1. 




SCISSORS AND DANCING JACKS 



49 



JACKS 



FIG. I 



FIG. I 





STOCK 

BODY 

3" CLOTHESPIN 
ARMS 

LEGS 



SCISSORS JACK 

STOCK 

2, shoulde:rs_3/4" k. v4 x z.% 

I HEftD 2." A^"X4-V 

6 BODY 3/4" * J^'X^-ft." 

J- LEGS |V * VVX 6/i 



SCALE. 



CLOTHESPIN JACK 



STRING OACK. 
STOCK 

I HEAD) 134" * <A1' X 6Ji" 

2. ARMS ^." X%"X4%" 

2. LEGS I " X %" X. 5^." 

2. BODY 3" *.%" X 4'/*," 




If desired the jack can be dressed and facial expressions added. 
The clothespin jack (Fig. 2) is a clothespin cut off at the end and arms 
and legs added. If the nails are put in so that the legs do not swing 
too freely, a number of postures can be secured. 



E 



50 



MANUAL TRAINING— PLAY PROBLEMS 




CLIMBING AND JUMPING JACKS. The climbing jack as 
shown in the drawing is made by fastening the arm to the body in a 
position slightly above the horizontal. The cardboard in the palm 
of the hand should not be fastened down too tightly. The string 
should slip between the cardboard and the wood with a little friction. 
The staple or double pointed tacks should be small. The one in the 
hand should be driven in lengthwise with the arm while the two in 
the leg should run crosswise. The leg should swing freely. When the 
string is loose, the rubber band should pull the leg up about as shown 
in Fig. I. When the string is pulled taut as shown in Fig. 2, the 
position of the two staples in the leg holds the string at this point, 
while the string at the top easily slips down through the cardboard 
and the wood of the hand, or as it appears the hand slips up the string. 
This position is shown in Fig. 2. When the string is slackened and 
the rubber band pulls the leg up, the friction of the cardboard against 
the wood of the hand should hold the string tight while the changed 
position of the staples in the leg allows the string to slip up freely from 
below. If upon relaxing the string, it should slip through the hand, 
the cardboard should be fastened to the wood a little more firmly. 
If the rubber band will not allow the leg to straighten down enough, 
get a longer band or move down the nail which holds it on the body. 
This jack should climb about 5" with each pull of the string. 

The jumping jack (Fig. 3) is made by taking a block of wood for 
the body and head, and having the arms and legs pivot freely. Strings 



CLIMBING AND JUMPING JACKS 



51 



JACKS 



FIG. I 



fIG.i. 




STOCt\ 

BODY 

I LELG 
WX^'XC-" 

arpi 

I" XJ4"X4" 

CARDBOARD I'M" 
5" RUBBER BAUD 
3-/jl'5TftPLE5 



side: view 



FRONT VIEW 



* 3 » 



fastened to the extremities of the parts are brought together and fas- 
tened a short distance above the head to a light rubber band which 
is suspended from a nail at the top of the head. Jerking the end of 
the rubber band causes the projecting parts to move up and down. 



52 



MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 



GYMNASTIC AND POLE JACK. The pole jack (Fig. 1) is a 
simple construction. The action is shown in the photograph, the 
lower one with the handle down and the upper one with the handle 
up. The top part of the pole should be slightly thinner than the 

handle or bottom part. 

The gymnast jack (Fig. 2) is also 
of simple construction in which all 
the joints must work freely. If more 
advanced technique is desired, the 
body may be made of a heavier 
piece. The one shown in the photo- 
graph is made of a piece -§-" square. 
The joints may be similar in con- 
struction to that of the dolls on page 
139. The uprights can be nailed to 
the crosspiece, but the continual 
strain on the uprights soon pulls the 
nails loose. A slim wire finishing nail 
or brad running through the several 
pieces, as shown in Fig. 2, should 
be used. The top part should be 
threaded with a piece of strong cord 
or thread as shown in Fig. 2. By 
pushing the handles of the upright 
in and out, vibrations are produced 
upon the string. This causes the 
figure to swing back and forth and 
over the cord. 

A dancing or clogging jack can be 
made with parts of a broomstick for 
the body, a spool for the head, and bamboo or a small rod for the legs 
and arms. The ends of a spool can be shaped up for the feet. This 
jack must be made up with as many joints as possible. Bore a hole 
through the body ; then fasten a string to the top of the feet and up 
through the legs, body, and out at the head. If it is not convenient 




GYMNASTIC AND POLE JACK 



53 



JACKS 



TOP VIE1W WITH CAP OFF 



SCALE. 



TOP VIEW 



FIG. I 




BACK 

VIEW 



STOCK FOR POLE JACK 

r pole: _ w k %£ x. is" z arms-^-" k '4"\ 3 " 

I HANDLE. W K V4! U" 2. THIGHS- 1 " \ V4-' A 4-" 
I BODY__lM-"* y^ X.4&' I CALF_^" X Y4" X4-" 

i cap / " x Vq. *./#: 2. peeltj^' k #' * 3" 



h- 












t~ 


« 1 


i 


ill 

[1 


o I 

cD - 


Ju 


£ » 


V 




\ 




> STRINGS 




7 










1 




X 


X 










r 


s 












r- 


s 












C 


I 












I 




1 










1 














y 




































(0 








rO 






I 






















E 














ca 


if 












r 














h 


h 










( 






) 








II 
J 

£ 




J 


















— 














■ 




4- 


<— 


— M 1 — ► 


4> 

X 
Id 

2T 






F"RONT 


i- 




J 




VIEVv 


r 





__i_ 



STOCK FOR GYMNAST JACK 



I UPRIGHT 7/&! 

i CHOSSPIEJCE.% 
I B0DY_ I " 

M' 



2. ARMS. 
X THIGH5_ 



2. CALVLS. 



x y-il * a " 

x i>i" x.zJi" 

\ 14." X 3^." 

X. ^" X ztf 

X ^" X 2." 



J2L 



to bore the holes, tie the joints together with string. To work the 
jack suspend so that the feet will rest lightly on a thin board such as a 
shingle projecting over the edge of a table which when tapped lightly 
will vibrate and cause the jack to clog in great style. 



54 



MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 



— ^ 


t_ 


d 


L 




■■!*■ 


y.- 

13 


: J 


g 


1 

r 




L 








B l 


a 


Li 


< 


* 


r 




*^* 






< 


J 
^ 


•4 


fans 






= 


















X 


BaaniBni 


*"" 






TP" 



LEVER MOVEMENTS. The lever movement in a variety of 
forms is suggested in the drawing and the photograph. In Fig. 1 
of the drawing is shown the ' blacksmith clothespin boys." The 
anvil is made by sawing off the top of one clothespin. The arm can 
be made of a brad, a piece of wire, a match, or a small dowel. The 
proper fastening of the arm is difficult. Secure the arm to the hammer 
before sawing away the clothespin, as it is easier to handle and is less 
liable to split. The arm piece should be fastened to the hammer 
straight in, at right angles. The arm is fastened into the body slant- 
ing upwards. The parallel strips should not fit too tightly in the 
slots of the clothespin, else they will not work back and forth easily. 

In assembling the parts, first nail the anvil securely to the center 
of one of the strips. Next, adjust the " boys " and fasten them, one 
on each side of this strip with nails to make the pivots so that the 
hammer will strike the anvil directly on top. With the clothespins 
in an upright position and the parallels at right angles to them the 
desired distance apart, drive in the two lower pivot nails, which should 
be long enough to allow the points to be bent over. 

The heavy lines in the drawing show the position of the parts as 
they should be when fastening in the nails. The dotted lines show 
the position when the lower strip is shifted over, the right " boy ' 
with hammer down on the anvil, and the left " boy" with hammer up- 
raised. Should the hammers be out of line adjust by bending the 
arm, if the arms are made of wire ; but if of wood this is hardly possible. 



LEVER MOVEMENTS 



55 



LEVER MOVEMENTS 



side: 

VIEW 




STOCK FOR BLACKSMITH BOYS^_4 CLOTHESPINS -I PARALLlLS_%"X>6"X8 " 

SCALE1 



1 ' ' I 




FIG.3 



\ O 1 


4. 


/ ° / 








\ ° X 


- A 

* 


jj o / 



STOCK FOR CHICK WITH WORM 

Z PARALLELS H" X >t"A 10" 

2. CHICKS 2- " X ^a" A -3 " 

I RUBBERBAND 



STOCK FOR. WRESTLERS SCALE! 

2. PARALLE.LS__^."X^"X fG" 

2. BODIES '#■" >"->t"Xv6" 

2. APxHS^ IJ4" X/a"X3 / J£' 



1 I i I ■ i ' 



j£L 



The " chicks with worm " and the " wrestlers" (Figs. 2 and 3) 
operate similarly to the " blacksmith boys," but are not as difficult 
to assemble. When driving the pivot nails in, the strips should always 
be parallel and the upright pieces should be in an upright position. 



56 



MANUAL TRAINING— PLAY PROBLEMS 




KNIVES. AND DAGGERS. Knives can be made in a number of 
ways, depending on the use to which they are put. When carefully 
planned, they are excellent manual training problems. 

The knife as suggested in Fig. 1 is made of two pieces, the handle 
and blade being separate. In one end of the handle, a slot is cut to 
admit the blade. Before gluing this firmly in position, the handle 
and blade should be modeled to the desired shape. Lines for the out- 
line of the curves should be drawn, and these should be followed care- 
fully if a good shape is to be expected. The knife suggested in Fig. 1 
can be used as a dagger. If a hilt is desired it should be cut out of 
sheet metal or thin wood and fastened on as suggested for the con- 
struction of the fencing rods shown on page 63. 

Figs. 2 and 3 serve excellently as paper cutters or envelope 
openers. Fig. 3 suggests chamfer modeling and Fig. 2 suggests round 
modeling. To get a good round shape, the wood should be worked 
to an octagonal or eight-sided figure as suggested on page 61. 

Fig. 4 represents a dagger. A case can be made of cloth or 
leather. The handles and blades painted in contrasting colors, bronze 
for the handle and silver for the blades, is very effective. 

Knives for paper cutting and letter opening can be made from 
sheet brass or copper. A pleasing pattern for the outline should first 
be cut out of paper and traced on the metal with a sharp pointed 
instrument. If the metal is thin the outline can be cut with tinners' 
shears, and if thick with a metal saw. When purchased the metal is 



KNIVES AND DAGGERS 



57 



J 



END 
VIEW 

FIG. I 



FIG* 



END 
VI EW 







END 
VIEW 

FIG. 3 



KM IVES - DAGGERS 

SCALE. 



M | 

SIDE. VIEW 



* CROSS-SECTION OF BLADE 




E10GE. VIE.W 



STOCK 1 HANDL£l__r X #6"* 3" I BLADE — I" X>6"ibV 



EDGE. VIEW 




SIDE VIEW 



4 




STOCK. 



.%" A %" \6/4." 



SIDE VICW 



si- 



-DG£ VI E_W 



-\ 



STOCK 



•54" y^'A." rsQ'A" 




STO C K I ^ " X 3 /e A 8 >t" 



/COL 



soft. It should be hardened by repeated hammering over the whole 
surface while resting on a piece of hard wood or metal. The edge 
should be beveled by hammering and then further sharpened with a 
file or on a grindstone. It can be polished with emery cloth. 



58 



MANUAL TRAINING— PLAY PROBLEMS 




TIP CAT OR PEGGY. The simplest " cat " can be made of a 
piece of broom handle, 5" or 6" long. A half dozen types of 
" catties " are herewith suggested. If the numbers are to be dis- 
pensed with, the hexagonal and round ones present excellent problems in 
modeling. The corners of the square ones should be rounded freely, 
else the continued hard hitting will soon nick up the edges and make 
them look badly. Lay out the figures before cutting the taper. This 
will insure a working edge from which to square the lines across. 

The game is played as follows : "' One player stands within a circle, 
and with stick or bat of convenient size strikes the cat on the end, 
making it fly into the air. Before it falls to the ground the batter 
knocks it as far as he can. If the cat falls within the circle, the batter 
is out and another takes his place. If the batter makes a fair knock, 
he guesses how many bat lengths he has sent the cat, that number 
being added to his score. However, if his guess is too high, as shown 
upon measurement, he is out. The one having the highest score 
after a certain number of rounds, wins. The game may be greatly 
varied. Sometimes the batter measures the distance by jumps ; some- 
times sides are chosen. In the latter case as many holes are made as 
there are players on each side. These holes are made equally distant 
apart and in the form of a circle. One side takes position, one player 
at each hole, the other side forming outside the circle. One player 
' tips " the cat from his hole and all run, the object being for each 
player to get to the next hole before the other side can return the cat 



TIP CAT OR PEGGY 



59 





c/9 


# V 




i 

/ \ 




/ \ 




/ \ 








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/ \ 




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XL 
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between any two holes. If this is successfully done, the side at the 
bat scores a run ; if not, the side is out. The side scoring the greatest 
number of runs, wins." 1 

1 G. E. Johnson, Education Through Plays and Games, pp. 173-174. 



60 



MANUAL TRAINING— PLAV PROBLEMS 



PEGGY BATS. The peggy bats should not be made of soft wood 
but an inexpensive hard wood should be used, such as pine or oak, 
because of the hard usage it is bound to receive. For the same 
reason the sharpness of all square corners should be well rounded 
off. Eighteen inches of broom handle is a favorite bat for boys. 

For the manual training man 
who is looking for a series of tool 
exercises in round modeling and 
chamfering, the bat as suggested 
in Fig. 8 has been found to be 
most excellent. Figs. 4, 5, and 6 
illustrate the method used to model 
the handle from the square to the 
round. To do this first lay out the 
octagonal shape. Gage the lines from 
the edges a little more than one- 
quarter the diameter. In this case 




where the thickness is f ' the distance 



should be a full ^ M . After gaging 
cut to the lines as Fig. 4. Next, make 
1 6 sides as Fig. 5. With large work it 
is best to layout all the lines, but with 
the smaller pieces it is simply neces- 
sary to plane off the eight edges and 
thus make the 16 equal sides. It is 
then a simple matter to plane off 
these 16 edges, making 32 sides, and 
round up with sand paper as Fig. 6. 
For chamfered edges such as at 
the end of the bat, do not make the 
lines with the marking gage, since the 
knife marks remain in the wood ; but use the thumb gage by holding 
the pencil between thumb and finger, using the finger as a stop against 
the work and letting the pencil point project the desired distance. A 
little practice makes this a very desirable method. 



PEGGY BATS 



61 



o 



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CD 
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EDIICHI 




Fig. 8 is the type of bat which meets with universal favor by 
the boys. For the younger boys and the ones for whom the 
making of this is too advanced, make the paddles as shown in 
Figs. 1 and 2. 



62 



MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 



FENCING RODS. Figs. 1 and 2 are suggestions of fencing rods 
in which round rods or dowels are used for the blades. If dowels 
are not available, the blades can readily be made from square or 
rectangular shaped sticks. The wood for the blades must be per- 
fectly straight grained. They should 
be shaped up as shown in Fig. 3. 
In Fig. 1 the blade tapers from §" di- 
ameter at the handle to |" diameter 
at the point. The blade of Fig. 2 is 
tapered in thickness only, as shown 
in Fig. 4, from f " at the handle end 
to -j^-" at the point. The points 
should be rounded, but not sharp- 
ened. 

In Fig. 1 a round rod is used for 
the handle. In Fig. 2 the handle 
is made from a rectangular piece 
as shown by Fig. 3. The sharp 
corners can be sandpapered off. 
Bore a hole into the end of the 
handle about 1" in depth so that 
the end of the blade will fit snugly. 
Also bore a hole the same size in 
the center of the guards. 

To assemble the fencing rod, first 
slip the guard over the end of the 
blade; then, after applying glue to 
the parts, slip the blade into the 
hole in the handle. Be careful that 
this hole is perfectly straight so that 
the handle and blade will line up together. Brad the parts together 
and let them dry thoroughly before using them. 

Of the middle pair of rods in the photograph, the blades are made 
from rectangular pieces shaped up as shown in Fig. 4. The other 
pairs of rods have been made from dowels, one with wooden guards 




FENCING RODS 



63 



FENCING RODS 



TOPVIEW 



TOP VIEW 




SCALE 



1 i ' I ' I ' 
* 4"- >. 



rX 



SiDEJ iviEW 

EttD OF BLAD£ 



riG.i 



I HANDLE. 
I BLADE_ 
I GUARD 



FIG.2. 
STOCK 

_i>3/&" X94"X5" 

f^." DIAM. X43" 

METAL _4>i."DIAM. 




STOCK . 

I HANDLE I" DIAN1 X 5" 

I BLADE. JVQIAM X4-5" 

J G U A R D 4 id" X 3 /a" X4>i!' 



MODE 




J U 

SIDE) IVIEW 

L ! 

CO 

END of BLADE! 



M. 



and the other with metal guards. The guards that are shown in use 
in the other photograph on page xxiv have been found to be very 
serviceable. These rods are made of bamboo. The large end of the 
bamboo is used for the handle and the smaller part for blades. 



64 



MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 




ROQUE OR CROQUET GAME. To play the game herewith 
shown, place at the stake a perfectly round ball. A large size grain 
of shot is very satisfactory. Size No. BB is small enough to readily 
go through the arches. Holding the game board on the palm of the 
hand, tilt it so that the ball will go through the arches in the order 
marked in Fig. 1. Should the ball roll into or beyond the boundary 
groove or gutter, the next player must take his turn. When the first 
player's turn comes again, he must start the ball from the point where 
it rolled outside the boundary. The object of the game is to pass 
through all the arches and finish by hitting the post at the starting 
point. Fig. 1 represents the usual arrangement of the arches in 
croquet. Fig. 2 represents a plan of the official roque game drawn 
to scale. The exact plan and description of the courts are shown in 
the Roque Guide of the Spalding's Athletic Library, published by the 
American Sports Publishing Co., New York (price 10 cents). 

This game board as a manual training problem admits of line 
carving with and across the grain. In Fig. 1, f" holes are bored in 
the corners and by means of a gouge these are connected with a groove. 
If this groove is large enough to hold the ball the outside rim or stop 
may be dispensed with, but it will be found that this rim used as an 
extra precaution saves the ball from falling off to the floor. The cor- 
ners of the outside rim can be mitered. The top surface of the board 
should be smooth. Double pointed tacks can be used for the arches. 

The crokinole and carrom boards as shown above were quickly 



ROQUE OR CROQUET GAME 



65 



ROQUE GAME 



SCALE 



END VIEW 



' I ' | ' | ' | ■ 
< •+" 



I BRAD FO^ POST 
1*1 




% HOLE. 



D 



.3 0- 



^-| STAPLE FOR. ARCHES 



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GROOVE 



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STOCK 
I BOTTOM 5Ji"*#kir 



FIG. I 



44 



2. SI DEIS . 
2. EHDS- 



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SECTION 
flTR-B 




STAKE 



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^ftRcne.s 

3 



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4 



GROOVE FOR GUTTER 




■S + 



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FIG./L, 

STOCK 2. SIDES 94XJ4 x u& 

I BOTTOn 6"xX"xl|" 2 EKDS 9i"/v^"K 6" 



J2L 



and easily made one-half the regulation size. Although more difficult 
it is better to make them full size, which is about 30". If possible 
go to the store and get exact measurements. The game disc is about 
f" high and the outside rim 1 ". 



66 



MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 




SOLITAIRE GAME. Dowels, round pins, nails, round discs, 
or marbles can be adapted to any one of the solitaire boards ; square, 
octagonal, or round as shown in the drawing. If it is desired to make 
the board of a solid piece as in Fig. 2, the boring can be stopped just 
as soon as the point of the bit comes through on the bottom side. 
Great care must be exercised in the boring; for if one hole is bored 
through, it necessitates boring all the holes through and using a bottom 
board. If desired, a bottom board can be used as in Fig. 1. In Fig. 
3 a countersink bit can be used to make the recesses for the head, or a 
round-headed screw can be filed up and used as a countersink. This 
secures a better fit for the marble. 

The " Center Hole " game consists in starting with all but the 
center hole filled, and in finishing with only the center hole filled. The 
method used is by jumping as in checkers and removing the piece 
jumped. The key for correct play, as per diagram (Fig. 1 ) is as follows : 



1. Pass 

2. Pass 

3. Pass 

4. Pass 

5. Pass 

E 

6. Pass 

7. Pass 

8. Pass 

9. Pass 

E 



D2 
Fl 
E 1 
E4 
CI 



nto D 4 and remove D 3 10. 

nto D 3 and remove E 3 11. 

nto E 3 and remove E 2 12. 

nto E 2 and remove E 3 13. 

nto E 1 and again on into 

3, removing D 1 and E 2 14. 

E 6 into E 4 and remove E 5 15. 

G 3 into E 5 and remove F 3 16. 

D 5 into F 3 and remove E 5 17. 
G 1 into G 3 and again on into 
5, removing G 2 and F 3 



Pass B 3 into D 5 and remove C 5 
Pass C 7 into C 5 and remove C 6 
Pass C 4 into C 6 and remove C 5 
Pass E 7 into C 7 and again on into 

C 5, removing D 7 and C 6 
Pass C 2 into C 4 and remove C 3 
Pass A 1 into C 3 and remove B 1 
Pass D 3 into B 1 and remove A 1 
Pass A 3 into A 1 and again on into 

C 3, removing A 2 and B 1 



SOLITAIRE GAME 



67 



SOLITAIRE GAME 



SCALt 
» I ' | * I ■ J « I ■ | 











FIG. 


1 










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/ 


/ 








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r 8*1 8 's I a I s" a I a I a'| 



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STOCK FOR SQUARE BOARD 

I PIECE 8" X Q 4" x 8" 

I PIECE_8X'x^"x8>4 
31D0WELSJ/4"DIAI v l.> / vl%" 

STOCK E0f\ OCTAGONAL BOARD 
IPIECE_7" X &"X7" 
32. BR/\DS_2."L0hG 

STOCK EOR. CIRCULAR BOARD 
I PlECE_8"DIAtV/v a A" 



jKL 



1 8. Pass D 5 into D 3 and again on into 

B 1.B3, D5, F 3, removing D 4, 
C3,B2,C5,andE5 

1 9. Pass F 2 into D 4 and remove E 4 



20. Pass C 4 into E 4 and remove D 4 

2 1 . Pass E 3 into E 5 and remove E 4 

22. Pass F 3 into D 5 and remove E 5 

23. Pass D 6 into D 4 and remove D 5 



68 



MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 




MARBLE GAMES. The marble board or rake may be made in 
a great variety of ways, covering processes especially in sawing, chisel- 
ing, and boring. If thin wood is used as suggested in Fig. 1 , the open- 
ings should be cut out with a coping saw. 

A sawing and chiseling problem is suggested in Fig. 2. The slant 
on the top edge of the two end pieces can be cut at the same time. 
After getting them out the proper length and thickness, fasten them 
together in position with two brads or a clamp, and then cut the slant. 
In fastening the box together, a few drops of glue should be used at 
the joints. Considerable care must be taken in nailing, else the pieces 
will split. Use two nails in the back and two or three in the front. 
Care must also be used to have the bottom edges on a line with each 
other, else the box will not set down level. For the slow workers, the 
making of the ends and back could easily be dispensed with. 

Fig. 3 suggests a problem in either chiseling or boring or both. If 
the chiseling and boring are combined in the one piece as suggested 
in Fig. 3, the holes should not be bored until after the chiseling is 
finished. To get a good finish, edges should be slightly rounded or 
chamfered, and sandpapered. 

Fig. 3 in the drawing of bean bag games on page 1 7 is a suggestion 
of possibilities of marble rake made from cigar boxes. If the open- 
ings are cut with a chisel it must be very sharp and great care must 
be taken else the wood will split. If it is best to use the coping saw, 
see directions for use on page xxiv. 



MARBLE GAMES 



69 



i i 

J L 



MARBLE GAMES 

SCALE. 



■ i ' r i T i ' i ' i ' I 

-< 4' — : — »_| 



FIG t 




VI HW 



STOCK- ONE LOMG IWIHOW CIGAR BOX 



TOP VIEW 



-i r 

i i 

J l. 



i i 



12. %'- 



FRONT VIEW 



m 



NoO 



STOCK 

I FRONT l¥4*tfxa% 
I ENDS 1%'x3a*3'4: 
I BACK I#x*£xk8 




i^/f^4*jj4-j4*ff^ i^ig ^/g^'f J* /£*k-#-*J >*$*— 3£ — 4£ 





H i 



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k- 



13V 



T STOCK 

•J, I PIECE. ^"x%"x/3,!i 

1 

FIG. 3 



T r 

_j l. 



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■i-4-i i^-i^^!|uu,'^/-^/^k-i|^-i^i£Vr 






tMDVIELW 



fca> 



It is best to leave the paper on until after the cutting is done. 
Points in playing the games may be arranged as desired ; one point for 
the large opening and more as they increase in difficulty. This is 
suggested in Figs. 2 and 3. 



70 



MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 



STILTS. Stilts for those who have had no practice in stilt walk- 
ing should be long enough to fit under the shoulder or to grasp with 
the hands. The foot should not be strapped to the step. To avoid 
accidents when falling, one must be able to quickly jump to the ground. 

The short stilt strapped to the leg 
as shown in Fig. 3 should not be 
used until one has become expert in 
walking. In some countries, the stilt 
is much used by shepherds and is a 
great convenience in traveling over 
the ground. A strap each for the 
ankle and the foot fastens it very 
securely. 

When camping out, the stilts 
may be cut from a tree. Select a 
straight limb about \\ u in diameter 
which has a branch growing out 
at almost right angles. Cut this 
branch off with a projection of 3" 
or 3^" for the step. Cut the limb 
off about 20" below this step and 
the necessary length above. 

As a manual training problem, 
the stilt affords an excellent exer- 
cise in rounding the edge and in 
chamfering. This process is described 
in the tip-cat bat on pages 60 and 61 . 
A light wood with a straight grain is 
desirable. To avoid splitting at the 
ends, a chamfer of at least ^" should be given the bottom edge. 
Care must be taken in fastening the step to the upright that the 
screws or nails do not split the step block. To avoid splitting bore 
a small hole in the step where the screw enters. Foot loops can be 
made with bands of thin metal as suggested in Fig. I, or the foot 
can be fastened with cords or leather straps. The straps can be 




STILTS 



71 



STILTS OR TOM-WALKERS 



SHOULDER STILT 






'.' (( «i.o.)) £ 




- y a -TOP %'BOTTom LEG STILT 



C3 



STOCK 

Z.STEP5 FRon ONE. 

piece 5"* i/ a <a" 

2 UPRIGHTS 

f"OR SHOULDER I &"x %x{,' 

roR Hflno 1%'KFa"^ 

FOFILE.G |$g'x%"*3' 



THE TWO STEPS MAY BE 

riADE r-non ohe bloca 



scale: 



-4"- 



JL-^'CHRMFER 



.f" 

i 



STRAP 

BELOW 

KNEE. 







STRAP 

FOR 
ANKLE. 





I 



STRAP 

FOU 
FOOT 






rie.3 



ca 



fastened to the uprights or slipped into loops made of leather or thin 
metal. In Fig. 3 buckles are shown. These can be purchased at the 
leather store or harness shop. They can easily be sewed or riveted 
to leather strips about }" wide. 



72 



MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 




• f> m 




SHINNEY OR HOCKEY STICKS, PUCKS, AND SHIN GUARDS. 
Hockey sticks should be not less than 36" and not more than 48" 
long. An excellent stick can often be selected from the branch of a 
tree. When made in the workshop, the process of modeling the handle 
is seen in the drawing of the peggy bat shown on pages 60 and 61. A 
longer striking surface than that shown in Figs. 3 and 4 is desirable, 
but is not practical unless the grain of the wood follows the curve of the 
turn, as would be the case in a piece cut from a tree or when the end 
is steamed or soaked in water and bent into shape. Short grain must 
be avoided. The handle should be rounded for at least 18" from the 
end. For the younger boys and girls the handle should be not more 
than 1" round or the size given in Fig. 4, while for the older boys 
1|" round or the size shown in Fig. 3. 

The pucks can be made any shape or of any material that will 
roll well. Many prefer the round shape because it rolls. 

Shin guards are a necessity. The guards should be made to fit 
the person intending to wear them. They must be made short enough 
so as not to interfere with the free movement of the ankle and the 
knee. The width over all should taper so as to fit the leg. Figs. 1 and 
2 are two arrangements which have been found to work out well for 
boys of the upper grammar grades. To fasten together, lay the strips 
in position as shown in drawing. Next lay the straps made of strong 
leather at least J" wide and the necessary length, across the strips. 
Four short nails or tacks about f " long should be used to fasten the 



SHINNEY OR HOCKEY STICKS, PUCKS, AND SHIN GUARDS 73 



3 ,.l „? 



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strap on each strip of wood. After all the nails are hammered down 
tight, turn the shin guard over, and bend the points of the nails over, 
hammering them down firmly into the strips. Fasten a buckle to one 
end of the straps, and punch small holes in the other end. 



74 



MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 




BOW GUN. A straight grained hard wood such as white ash 
should be used for the bow. A barrel hoop can be used. Cut the 
strip to the desired width and thickness, and then taper it toward 
the ends, keeping the bottom edge straight. Just how much to taper 
it, will depend on the wood used. Test it while working it down. 
When bent, the bow should make a strong curve with the ends curved 
more than at the middle. When the cord is attached and pulled 
back hard, the distance between the middle of the cord and the middle 
of the bow should be the same as the distance between the trigger and 
the hole in the barrel in which the bow is held. A heavy fish line or 
rawhide makes an excellent bow-string. It is well to have this slightly 
shorter than the bow, and it is best to have it arranged with a knot 
and loop so that it can be slipped off, thus relieving the bow of the 
continued strain. 

The stock and barrel of the bow gun can be made of one piece, 
but to save lumber in the construction of Fig. 1 they are each made 
of separate pieces, the edges being glued up on the line indicated in 
Fig. 2. Before gluing them together, the hole for the bow should be 
cut. It is well to make the hole small enough so that the bow will 
fit tightly. After gluing the stock and barrel together and cutting 
to the outline, lay out the slot for the trigger and cut it out with an 
auger bit and chisel. Then cut a semicircular groove along the 
upper edge of the barrel as shown by the end view of the barrel in 
Fig. 2. If this is too difficult, the groove can be formed by fasten- 



BOW GUN 



75 



BOWGUN 



END 

VIEW 




M. 



ing pieces of metal or thin wood on the sides of the barrel as shown in 
Fig. 4. 

If the cutting of the groove and slot is too difficult, the gun can 
be made of three thicknesses of wood by using three J" or ^" pieces 



76 



MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 




the full size of the gun. After sawing the outline, take the inside 
thickness and cut enough away to allow for the slot of the trigger and 
the groove of the barrel. 

Cut out the trigger and fit it in so that, when cocked, it assumes the 
position shown in Fig. 2. When the trigger touches the back of the slot, 
the top of it should rest just underneath the cord as shown in Fig. 1 . 
Next, slip the bow in place and with a brad driven in from the top edge 
of the barrel, fasten so as to keep the bow exactly in the middle. Now 
string up the bow and set the gun by pulling the cord back and slipping 
it down against the shoulder just above the trigger. When the trigger 
is pulled the cord should readily be raised above this shoulder, thus 
releasing the tension of the bow. If everything is properly adjusted 
the arrow should easily shoot 100 to 200 feet with a fairly true aim. 

Arrows should be made with the front end slightly heavier 
than the back. This can be done by forcing a little metal in the end 
or by wrapping it with wire, or a strip can be cut lengthwise from a 
shingle. Into the rear end, a paper rudder or feathers should be 
inserted so that the arrow will carry straight to the mark. To put 
in the paper guide, the end should be split slightly and a piece of stiff 
paper slipped in. If feathers are used select straight ones and tie 
them on with fine wire. A brad should be driven in the front end 
and filed to a sharp point. This will enable the arrow to hold where it 
strikes the target. This point should stick out only slightly, otherwise 
it is rather dangerous. 



DARTS 77 

A target as suggested in Fig. 5 can be made of soft wood or heavy 
cardboard. The alternating circles should be painted in contrasting 
colors. Targets are also made with a dirt or sand background by using 
a shallow box and covering the top with a target painted cloth or very 
tough paper. 

DARTS. The illustration on the opposite page shows a few of 
the many possible varieties of darts. In the upper part of the 
photograph two methods of dart throwing are shown. In the 
top one a stick made from a green bough is used, and in the 
one below it a heavy rubber band is used to give the needed 
elasticity. To hold the cord a notch is cut in one side near the 
front end of the dart. This notch must be cut out on a sharp bevel 
slanting inward toward the front end, and in such a manner that 
a knotted cord will be held tightly in place when the cord is pulled 
forward, but releases itself when the cord is pulled in the opposite 
direction. In both of the above the cord is knotted and is seen 
caught in the notch of the dart. In the upper one the dart is 
hanging downward at the extreme right; while in the lower one 
the dart is horizontal and the handle hangs downward. In this 
one the dart is simply a small round stick with the forward end slightly 
larger and heavier. The proper length of the cord must be deter- 
mined by experimentation. The longer the stick the longer must 
be the cord. 

To throw the dart grasp the handle of the stick in the right hand 
(unless left handed) and with the dart in the left hand pull hard mak- 
ing the cord taut and the stick bowed. Now release the dart, and 
with a quick motion of the arm throw the stick forward. The sudden 
straightening of the stick and the added momentum given it by the 
movement of the arm will throw the dart with considerable force a 
great distance. 

In the dart thrower in which a rubber band is used, the rubber is 
tied to the handle with a piece of cord. Practically the same move- 
ments are used in throwing as previously described. With practice 
these darts can be thrown at a target with gratifying results. The 
boys and girls enjoy this sport immensely. 



78 



MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 



SWISS DINKEY BIRDS. In Fig. 1 is shown the arrangement 
of the pivots and the cord of the pendulum which swinging sets the 
head and tail in motion. The pivots should be located near the upper 
corners of the body, and the ends of the cord should be fastened to the 

inner ends of the head and tail by 
means of a hole or a nail. The pivots 
must work very freely, and the cords 
must be arranged so that no friction 
is created to retard the free work- 
ing movement of the parts. If de- 
sired two body pieces can be used, 
and thus the movement of parts can 
be hidden from view. The upper 
part of the leg can be fastened in- 
side the body pieces. By fastening 
the stand to the side of the leg 
piece, the stand can be placed on a 
table and a book or other object 
can be used to hold the bird up in 
position, as shown in the front view 
of Fig. 1 . The leg piece can be dis- 
pensed with, as shown by the lower 
figure in the photograph. The cord 
for the pendulum should be long, 
and the weight heavy enough to 
exert a strong pull. 

The body of Fig. 2 is made of 
one piece. In each end of the body 
is cut a slot within which the head or 
tail piece is allowed to pivot. The 
legs are made of two dowels which are fastened to a block or stand piece. 
An opening of an inch or more is cut on one side of this stand and it 
is fastened to a table top by means of a wedge as shown in the front 
and side views of Fig. 2. In Fig. 1 the cord swings freely, but in 
Fig. 2 with every swing of the pendulum the cord strikes the project- 




SWISS DINKEY BIRDS 



79 



SWISS DINKEY BIRDS 



EH 



FRONT 
VIELW„ 




AXA 



ing part of the stand piece. This produces a somewhat erratic move- 
ment to the head and tail pieces. By slightly changing the meas- 
urements of one or more parts, different effects can be produced. 
Experimentation is necessary to work out satisfactory movements. 



80 



MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 



SWAYING FIGURES. The principle underlying the movement 
of these figures is the familiar arrangement of the knife and pencil as 
shown in Fig. 2. The " honest woodsman " (Fig. 1) can be outlined 
and sawed out with the coping saw. One edge of the upright piece 

is notched to resemble saw teeth. 
The arms can be made of two pieces. 
They can be nailed to the sides of the 
saw, and the body can be nailed di- 
rectly to the ends of these arm pieces, 
or the ends can be set into the body 
piece as suggested in Fig. I. If 
nailed directly to the body, the arm 
pieces should be larger, about f " or 
|" thick, so as to avoid splitting. 
One method of construction is to 
make the arms of one piece with 
a slip joint at one end and a mor- 
tise and tenon joint at the other, 
as is shown in the lower part of Fig. 
1 . The pivots set in the bottom of 
the feet are made by driving in 
brads and filing the brads to sharp 
points. It is necessary that these 
points be of equal length. If varia- 
tions in the proportion of the parts 
are made, it will be found that the 
longer the saw and cord and the 
shorter the arms, the more upright 
will be the position of the body. 
The weight should be fairly heavy. 
The dancing elephant (Fig. 3) is a suggestion that might be applied 
to many animal forms. The whole figure can be made of one piece 
as suggested in Fig. 3. The figure of this elephant is simply the modi- 
fication of a rectangular piece. The animal can be made much more 
interesting and better proportioned if the body and head are made 



^^^^^^m " ^^H 






ft \ ^MH w ' ^3 



SWAYING FIGURES 



81 



SWAYING FIGURES 



FIG. 3 front 

VIE.W 
SIDE VIEW ue-^w 




ARMS OF WOODSMAN 
made: of one: pielce: 



(a 



in one piece and the legs are made separate and fastened on each side 
so as to pivot. The pivot should be tight so that various positions 
can be assumed and held. The wire should be bent until the figure 
assumes a natural position. 



82 



MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 



FALLING SEESAW AND LADDER. In making the zigzag 
pole for the falling seesaw or teeter, shown in Fig. I, care must be 
taken in getting the width of the zigzag even. The end of the pole 
can be nailed and glued to the base pieces, and the upright pieces can 

be cross-lapped or simply crossed. 
The seesaw as shown is made rever- 
sible. When the beam has worked 
down to the bottom, turn upside 
down and the beam will work down 
again. The figures must pivot 
loosely on the nail, and the lower 
part of the figure must be heavier 
than that above the pivot, so that 
they will always right themselves 
with heads up when the seesaw is 
turned upside down. The side brace 
is not shown in the photograph, but 
has been found necessary to make 
a strong piece of work. A little 
wax will enable the beam to work 
with less friction. Within certain 
limitations the pupils can each cut 
and draw their own figures. 

The falling ladder or falling 
chinaman shown in Fig. 2 and in the 
lower part of the photograph can be 
worked to any size desired. It is 
highly important that the project- 
ing nails be placed evenly. As with the seesaw, a little wax will avoid 
friction. The rungs and sides of the ladder are usually drawn on a flat 
piece of wood, but cross-lap joints can be made if a real ladder is 
desired. Have the nails project far enough for the figure to run 
between the heads of the nails and the front surface of the ladder. If 
desired, the figures for both these problems may be cut out of heavy 
cardboard. 




FALLING SEESAW AND LADDER 



83 



FALLING SEESAW aud LADDER 



FIG. I 



STOCK, 

U\DDO\ Z^'X&'Vj*."., 
TIGURE. V X#."X*fc 




•ojjg H-l'H SIDE. VIEW Or BEWI 



_0_ 



Be sure to get the curve for the chinaman's cape perfectly even, 
with both sides exactly alike. The ladder can be made longer, but the 
position of the nails must not be changed unless the dimensions of 
the figures are made larger or smaller in exactly the same proportion. 



84 



MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 




LOOMS. The simplest form of a loom can be made of a piece of 
cardboard with ends notched to catch the warp threads. A simple 
wooden loom is made with butt joint as shown in Fig. 2. A lap joint 
is shown in Fig. 1 . A packing box may also be used by driving nails 
in two parallel edges of the open end. 

To hold the warp threads in place, make saw grooves or drive in 
nails. The grooves can be sawed in both pieces at the same time by 
fastening them together in the vise. The position of all grooves 
should be marked off from the rule without moving it. This insures 
having the correct number of grooves within the desired length. Fig. 1 
shows the grooves made with the saw. They should be not less than 
j" apart. Care must be taken in sawing the grooves. They must 
not be more than f " in depth, else the wood between the grooves will 
be liable to break out. If brads are used, they must be driven in 
carefully lest the great number of them on a line split the wood. In 
Fig. 1 steel rods |" or ^" in diameter, located just under the outside 
threads, are used to keep the cloth a uniform width. If wires are not 
used, considerable care must be taken to keep the cloth the same 
width throughout. 

The loom as planned in Fig. 2 is made with a butt joint by nailing 
the cross pieces to the ends of the side pieces. 

The loom should be designed to suit the widest size of cloth desired ; 
the full width or length, however, need not be used. After the cloth 
is woven, slip the thread off, then cut and tie the ends two at a time. 



LOOMS 



85 



LOOMS 



•i^i* 



TOP VIEW 



•m 



STOCK 

2 5IDES__I&" y-%^11' 

ZENDS 2." X 3 /e"X7" 

I I ROM RODS IO>i"LOMG 

/•WIRE! 



^ 



r 



&i 

-side: vieiw 



T~7f" 



5 



-H: 



at" 



_Ui 1 



-H 

-■-W 



WIRE, 



2 



z: 
£3 



_r4 



_i 



in 



FIG. I 



i 



SCALE 

I ' I ' M I ' I 
d" 



TOP VI E.W 



TT - 
i 



1*7*1 

cz 



STOCK 
2 SIDES fJi" X%"XIZ" 

Z ENDS 2" K/i"X8" 



needle: J/a" x y & " xio" 



TT 



-M 



JL 



■IN- 



SIDE VIEW 




3U 



T^ 



%." » 18 BRf\D3 

FIG. ^ 



/C0\ 



The threads running lengthwise are called the warp, and the threads 
crossing these are called the woof or weft. A strong string or fine cord 
such as carpet warp should always be used for the warp threads ; 
while raffia, yarn, or cord may be used for the woof. 



86 



MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 




ROOT-CAGES. The root-cages herewith suggested are wooden 
frames with glass sides. In Fig. 1 the glass is set into grooves sawed 
in the bottom and the end pieces. The grooves can be very quickly 
cut if a circular saw can be used ; but, if this is not available, an ordinary 
hand saw can be used. Old photograph negatives serve economically 
for the glass sides. The film can be readily cleaned off by putting 
the negative in a hot water solution of sal soda or other alkali and 
then scraping. 

To construct the root-cage suggested in Fig. 1 , slip the glass into the 
grooves of the end pieces, hold them firmly in position, and locate the 
braces. Then slip the glass out and nail on the braces. Next slide the 
glass in place again, mark the location of the bottom, slip the glass 
out, and nail the bottom in place, after which slip the glass in place 
again. It should fit in tightly, so that if the cage is turned upside down 
the glass will not drop out. A strip can be nailed lengthwise along 
each side at the top to hold the glass in place. If the root-cage is to 
be used for a vivarium, a cover should be provided. For this purpose 
a piece of perforated sheet metal or wire screen should be fastened 
down over the top. If hinged this can be used as a door. A nail 
driven and bent over will serve as a catch. If used for plants, a piece 
of cardboard should be slipped up against the glass sides to exclude 
the light, otherwise the light will drive the roots away from the glass. 

Fig. 2 shows a simpler construction of root-cage. No grooves are 
used, the edge of the glass fitting closely against the surface of the 



ROOT-CAGES 



87 



ROOT GAGES 



TOP VIEW 



-SAW GROOVES [£" DEEP 

TO HOLD GLASS Q*-DRAlNflGE: HOLE. = ck 



STOCK 

BOTTOM 

a" x ^-" \3" 

2. EHDS 

-2. BRACES 
Ve," X >4" X 8^." 

£SIDELQ 
GLASS 5" /s 7" 




SIDE VIEW 



FIG. I 



EMD VIEW 



SCALE 




SIDE VIEW 



FIG. I 



M_ 



STOCK 

I BOTTOM 

z'/£ x%" xs^" 

2. ENDS 

I" %^i" X4" 

Z 6RACES 

2 5T0 PS 

?h" xVx 6"" 

2.SIDL5 
GLAS3 4" X 6"' 



EMDWEW 



wood. Nails are used to hold the glass in place, but a strip of wood 
is much better. In Fig. 2, strips of wood are suggested along the bot- 
tom edges. To prevent the glass from slipping out if the cage is turned 
upside down, a thin strip should be fastened across the top at each end. 



88 



MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 




BIRD HOUSES. A simple bird house can be made from a 
jar or can, as suggested in Fig. 1. A back piece should be attached 
to the bird house if it is to be fastened against an upright surface ; 
or it may be suspended by means of wire or cord as suggested in 
Fig. 2. 

Many various types of construction may be used for the house, 
one of which is suggested in Fig. 2. The house may be built up of 
sticks of wood like a log cabin. The roof can be thatched or shingled. 

A box can be used as shown in the photograph. If the box is large, 
partitions can be put in and in this way compartments can be made 
to accommodate a number of birds. One opening only should be made 
for each compartment so that the inhabitants can keep out intruders. 
A hole not more than 1" in diameter should be used for wrens and 
chickadees, and 2" for bluebirds and robins. If large birds such as 
doves are to be housed, the opening should be about 3" by 4". The 
interior of the house can be readily accessible by hinging the side. A 
peephole can be arranged to observe the habits of the birds. It is 
desirable to have the surface of the wood rough. 

The following suggestions are by an authority on the care of birds. 
' The proper size for a bird house is 6" square floor space and 8" 
high. Old weathered boards should be used, or if painted they should 
be made the color of an old tree trunk. A single opening near the top 
should be made, 2" in diameter for most birds; although for wrens 
and chickadees one with 1" diameter is sufficient. 



BIRD HOUSES 



89 




BIRD HOUSES 



5T0CK FOR WREN HOUSE. 

I BACK i"K%" X a" I FR0MT_2." X%" X.4-" 

I B0TTOM_rx%"X a&" l ROOF_ 4v4Tx?6"X9" 
TIM CAM ABOUT dOX^" I R00F_4" X^"X9" 



i 
I 

'r- 

n 



-8i 



SIDE VIEW 



c 



SCALE 



T 
■3" 



STOCK 

a END&_ 
Jl SIDES 



I mDGE._l&"x%"x/o" 
4" X %" X7X' I BOTTOn.6 " X 3/a" X 8/*." 
.5" x-a/e" X 6 " jlroof: $)£ X%" x 3" 







'ROMT VI FW 



51 DII VIEW 



JSL. 



" A house of this kind will serve to keep out English sparrows, and 
for wrens the house should be set in a shady place." l For descriptions 
of bird houses, see Wm. Noyes' Design and Construction in Wood and 
A. F. Siepert's Bird' Houses Boys can Build. 

1 Hodge, Nature-Study and Life, p. 334. 



90 



MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 




BOX TRAPS. The box traps herewith shown are planned for 
rats or mice. If desired for mice only, reduce to one half the sizes 
given. If desired for rabbits or squirrels, they should be made about 
twice the sizes given. The box made of metal is more durable than 
wood. Small packing boxes, a convenient size, can be used, and the 
whole interior of the box can be lined with metal. If so, this should 
be tacked in before assembling. If the box is not lined, strips of sheet 
iron or tin should be run around all the open edges, and the holes 
provided for the trigger and for ventilation. In Fig. 1 the catch is 
fastened to the under side of the box. The door and catch may be 
made of one piece. If so, the top piece should be made about three 
inches longer and tapered so as to catch the end of the trigger. Note 
that the top edge of the back is beveled for clearance so as to allow 
the top piece to be raised up high enough to catch the trigger. If a 
butt hinge fastened to the back and the under side of the lid is used, 
this bevel is not necessary. 

The trigger can be made of a strip of wood, metal, or a wire ; the 
one suggested in Fig. 1 is of wire, and the other two are of wood. The 
trigger is best made of metal, because if the animal is in the box any 
length of time the end of the wooden ones will be gnawed up. The 
hole in the back of the box should only be large enough to insert the 
trigger. 

When the rodent is caught put the box in a bucket of water for a 
few minutes to drown it. If kept in the water long, it will take a 



BOX TRAPS 



91 



BOX TRAPS 



SGRL-El 



-rr 



T-rr. 

6" 



TT 




STOCK 

I TOP . 4'/e"x3/V 

I B0TT0M-4-H- n X3A" 

I BACK 4#'X34-" 

I FR0NT_4/8"X3^)." 
I SIDES_5" X W 
I TRIGGER WlftE 7" 
ICATCH_l>i"X ,!4" 
1 BRACE._I#' X I'/zl 



X I3&" 
X |I>1" 
X 3/zJ' 
X 3/a." 
Xll/i' 
LONG 
X 4-" 
X 4#' 







WIRETFUGGELf^ 



STOCK 

I FRONT- 4%" X 3*4" X 3%" 
I BP»Cr\_4^"X %." X 9^' 

I TOP 44#X3^."x ||" 

I BOTTOM- 4-H" X 3/4" X ll 3 X' 
2.SIDt5_J^'X^." KllW 
I CATCH _ !/i" X <A-" A I >£' 
I TRIGGER /z," X %" X 4- " 
I BRACE.--IV* lA'X4-^!' 




FIG. 3 

I BOTTOM . 
2. SIDES. 
I DOOR _ 

I CATCH _ 



5T0CK 

4Ka."X W xio/s." 

5%"X ^*." X II " 

4 3 /a"x i/z." X644" 

, l)4"X. i^-" *9&" 

.!/*." X 3^" X3^" 



I TRIGGER _ 

2. PvUBBER BANDS ABOUT 6 " LONG 

I TIM CAN —ABOUT 4-/*," DlflM- X9 




SIDE. VIEW 



EMD VIEW 




TRlflGE.Fl 



J&L 



long time for the wood to dry out. To have the box open and shut 
easily, the top and front pieces are made ^" narrower than the inside 
of the box. Note also, that the grain of wood in the back and front 
pieces runs up and down, that is, in the same direction as the top and 



92 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 

bottom pieces. This is done so that all of the pieces when wet will 
swell equally in width, and thus allow the box at all times to open and 
shut easily. A little wax should be applied to the sides if they stick 
in the least. 

The construction of Fig. 2 is almost similar to Fig. 1 . The connec- 
tion between the catch and trigger is made with a string run through 
a screw eye fastened at the top of the back piece. To hold the upper 
end of the catch, a notch which is cut in the middle of the back piece 
is indicated in Fig. 2. A little piece of wood may be fastened to 
the back instead of cutting the notch. The under edge of this piece 
will hold the catch down in place. Drive a nail into the end of the 
trigger and sharpen it to a point so that the bait can easily be fas- 
tened to it. If the piece of wood for the trigger is long, the end of 
it may be sharpened instead of using the nail. In Figs. 1 and 2, as 
soon as the trap is sprung by a movement of the trigger, the top and 
front pieces fall down into place and the rodent is securely caught, 
unless it has a chance to eat its way out. 

In Fig. 3, a tin can is used for the box. Pieces of wood are used 
at the sides and bottom and a brad is used at the end to hold the can 
up into place. The door pivots at the top by means of nails driven 
through the sides at the top corner. Rubber bands slipped over pro- 
jecting nails on each side connect the door to the side of the box. A 
slight movement at the bait end of the trigger will spring the trap 
and the rubber bands will bang the door shut. The whole box can 
be put in water. This is not necessary, however, if the heads of the 
nails which hinge the door are left projecting and are loose enough 
to pull out. Pull out the nails, slip off the rubber bands ; and the 
can and door can be lifted out together. Lower it into a bucket of 
water with the lid in place and against the side or bottom of the bucket ; 
then slip the door away. Thfs method avoids soaking the trap in 
the water when drowning the rodent. 

Another kind of box trap can be made, somewhat similar to that 
shown in Fig. 3 on page 91, without the use of the rubber band, the 
door dropping in place by means of its own weight. Either style of 
trigger can be used. If a box is used a slot can be cut in the top near 



BOX TRAPS 93 

the end large enough for the door to fit. If a tin can is used as sug- 
gested in Fig. 3, the sides can be made longer and strips or nails put 
on the inside to form grooves for the door, which must fit loosely so 
as to drop quickly as soon as the trap is sprung. A strip of wood or 
stiff wire is used for the connecting bar between the trigger and the 
door, At one end it fits into the notch of the trigger as shown in Fig. 3. 
At the other end it fits into a notch or shallow hole (this can be bored 
with a drill) on the inside surface of the door. A narrow strip of 
wood or projecting wire fastened to the top near the middle supports 
the bar, which in turn holds the trigger and door in position when the 
trap is set. A slight movement at the bait end of the trigger slips the 
bar out of position, and causes the door to drop down into place. 
After the rodent is caught the can can be lifted, with door in place over 
the end of the can, and slipped into a bucket of water as suggested 
at the bottom of page 92. 

The barrel trap which is shown on the left of the illustration on 
page 26 is made by means of tying a piece of heavy wrapping paper 
over the open top of a barrel. Food should be put on top of this 
paper for a few nights so that the rats get in the habit of feeding there. 
After they have gotten the habit, make slits in the paper. The paper 
should be stiff enough to hold their weight until they get near the 
center, when they will drop through the slits into the barrel, and the 
paper will go back into place. The food must be fastened to the paper 
so that it will not fall into the barrel. In a large warehouse where 
several of these traps were set hundreds of rats were caught in one 
night. 

A small trap constructed somewhat like the above can be made 
from a tin can. Select a large baking powder or coffee can, one 
with a lid made of thin tin. Make two cuts across the center of the 
lid at right angles to each other as shown in the illustration on page 26. 
The opening must be made so that the rodent can easily slip through 
it to secure the bait put inside, but cannot get out because the edges 
of the tin slant inward. The rodents that are caught can be drowned 
by placing the can in a bucket of water, and afterward taken out by 
removing the lid. 



94 



MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 




RING TOSS GAMES. The ring toss game, or quoits, is appli- 
cable to many tool exercises which involve the cross-lap joint, verti- 
cal boring, lathe turning, and box construction. 

Fig. 1 is one type of a box construction. An empty packing 
box with lock corners can be used. Saw the box to the desired height 
and then nail the top and bottom on. Next saw this box in two, thus 
separating the bottom and lid. Put lock blocks in each corner as 
suggested in Fig. 1 , or run a thin strip all around the inside of the box, 
letting it project about |". Bore holes for the pegs or uprights through 
the top of the box and part way into the bottom. The pegs can be 
fastened in permanently, or the pegs can be slipped out and put inside 
of the box together with the rings as shown in the photograph. 

Fig. 2 represents a cross-lap joint and the use of 5 pegs. 

The use of human or animal figures, such as the tossing of a collar 
or hat-shaped ring on the figure of a clown which has been sawed with 
a coping saw or turned on the lathe, the tossing of a bracelet or ring 
on the outstretched arm of a figure of a woman, or the tossing 
of a rope ring, or lasso, on the head of animal figures, all such add 
interest to the making. Group problems can be worked out by having 
one large figure and several small ones fastened to a board base. 

Rings can be made of a variety of materials. Rope J" or f " in 
diameter can be shaped and spliced in the form of a ring, and sewed 
or wrapped with cord or raffia. For a 5" ring, use 18" of rope and 
splice the ends for 2" or 3". If wire is used, it should be more than 



RING TOSS GAMES 



95 



FUNG TOSS GAMES 



STOCK 

I LOCK JOINT BOX ABOUT 9" X 3" X 12." 2 BASES_ 

4 CORNER BLOCKS— 3,4-" X.%"X£" - 2. FEET 

I DOWEL PEG . .VDIAn XI2." 5 DOWELS 



STOCK 

2." X $4 " X 1 2." 

i" X94." x. Z." 

4-^"xa" audi- %!'xiz." 




SIDE VIEW 



SIDE VIEW 



^" in diameter so as to be heavy enough to carry well. Rings of wood 
can be sawed out with the coping saw or turned up on the lathe. 

A pattern for quoits can be made and cast in metal. If of iron, a 
5" or 5J" disc with a 2*' or 2|" hole and J" in thickness is a good size. 



96 



MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 




RATTLERS. The ratchet for the clicker as shown in Fig. 1 can 
be made with any number of teeth. To make the eight-tooth ratchet 
as herewith shown, select a piece of wood not too thick so that it can 
be cut out with the coping saw, cut it to 2\ u square, and lay out with 
center lines each way and also diagonals. These lines will cut the 
surface up into eight equal parts. With a pair of compasses or dividers 
draw circles for the base and outer edge of the teeth, and next lay out 
the teeth similar to the ratchet shown in Fig. 1. The center hole 
for the axle should be bored before cutting it to shape. The ratchet 
must fit tightly to the axle. To lay out a ratchet with .six teeth, first 
lay out the circles and then divide into six equal parts. This can be 
done by stepping the radius six times around the circumference of 
the circle. The radius of any circle will always go around the cir- 
cumference just six times. The ratchet can then be laid out and cut 
to shape as before. The most convenient ratchet is that made from 
a spool as shown in Fig. 2. 

After the ratchet is finished, make a piece long enough for the 
handle and washer all in one ; then find the center at each end and bore 
holes f" or \ u in depth just large enough for the axle to fit in neatly. 
Now, saw the lengths for the handle and the washer one off each 
end, and cut the axle the desired length, which must be the outside 
thickness of the box plus the depth of each hole previously bored into 
the handle and the washer. The reason for these dimensions can 



RATTLERS 



97 



RATTLERS 



FRONT VIEW CLICKER SIDE VIEW 



SCALE. 



T" 



WIMPLE 



i_u_ 



*i 






i 



h— 



BLOCK 



BLOCK 




"TT" 



rA 



: 4 



FIG. I 



* + 




v9 H 



.J x - 




/C" 



F\G.X 



*i< 



SPOOL RATCHET 



STOCK 

I RATCHET— I '/i"Dl AM. X >£ " 

I FRONT l!4" X^"X6/i" 

I BACK l-fe* 

X SIDES V/i. 

I AXLE. 3 / 8 ' 



X^"X 6 
X%"X 9 " 
plAh.TU/T 
I HANDLE _JH" DIAH.X.3^" 
I WASH ER _3A " 1AM. X % " 
( BLOCK — -l'/i" X7t"X 3 " 

i block v/ii' 7<~f&y-s \ " 




SPOOL RATTLER 



#- H- 



W r 



i_L 



FIG.4- 



EIHDVIEW 



RATTLER STICI\ 



M. 



readily be seen in the front view of Fig. 1 . Now fasten the axle securely 
into the handle. Next, get out the two side pieces. Bore the holes 
for the axle through the two pieces at one time, and large enough so 
that they will revolve freely on the axle. Wax the inside of these 



98 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 

holes, but be careful not to get any wax on the axle, else it may make 
it impossible to securely fasten the ratchet to the axle. Next slip 
one of the side pieces on the axle, and then fasten the ratchet very 
securely to the axle. Now nail the two blocks to this side piece. The 
thickness of the blocks will depend on the thickness of the ratchet ; 
they should be slightly thicker than the ratchet. Next fasten the 
remaining side piece in place, and then fasten the washer securely to 
the end of the axle. A nail or cotter pin can take the place of the 
washer. Now nail the back piece in place. The end of it should be 
slipped up close to the ratchet, but not close enough to touch. Next 
fasten the front strip in place. It is best to make this of a wood that 
does not split readily. Slip one end of this front piece up toward the 
ratchet so that the point of the teeth will lift the free end, and as soon 
as it clears the point of the teeth it will bang back into position as 
shown in the side view, Fig. 1. If set too far up, the strain on the 
front piece is soon liable to split it into pieces. This strip must be 
nailed securely to the long block at the end, but not to the short block 
in the middle. Before fastening it securely, it is well to first tack it 
lightly in place and test it to see if it clicks satisfactorily. If necessary, 
the back piece can be dispensed with. The advantage of this piece, 
however, is that the hollow box thus formed gives a greater volume of 
sound. 

The spool rattler shown in Fig. 3 is made by simply taking an 
empty spool, running doubled cord through the center, and fastening it 
around one side as seen in the drawing. Next, take a small stick, slip 
it between the two thicknesses of cord and twist it tightly by means of 
the stick. This is shown in Fig. 3 and in the photograph. The 
tension of the cord pushes one end of the stick tightly against the 
spool. By pushing the upper end down and then releasing it, a tapping 
effect is produced. If this arrangement is attached to a hollow cylinder 
or box, a greater volume of sound can be obtained. 

Fig. 4 is the drawing of a rattler stick or "bone." Two or three 
of these comprise a set. They are held between the fingers and rattled 
in the palm of the hand. Two modifications of these can be seen in 
the drawing. 



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For the smaller rattler shown above, of which both the end and 
side views are seen, take a If" round or square block and bore a large 
size hole about 2" deep in one end to make it resonant. Next cut a 
slot about 1|" long and j" wide in this end. The handle can be 
shaped up round. Next take an 8" length of wire that is not too soft. 
Steel spring wire is best. A wire stay from a corset is excellent. Now 
bore a small hole through the diameter about 4" from the bored end. 
Slip the wire in this hole and fasten it down to the sides with double 
pointed tacks about §!' from where it projects from the hole. The 
ends of the wire should stand off from the block about an inch as shown 
above. Fasten on two pieces of wood or metal for the tongues. Holes 
can be bored and the wire inserted, or they can be tied or tacked on. 

Another form of rattler is what is known as a "Chinese drum." 
It is simply a small hollow cylinder or prism made of a heavy strong 
paper into which, before it is sealed, are put some small hard particles 
such as peas or shot. 

The lower piece in the illustration, which is a pop gun, speaks for 
itself. When the piston is pulled out, the cork at the end of the string 
is set into the end of the hole ; and when the piston is pushed in sharply 
the air forces the cork out with a popping sound. If the piston fits 
snugly but not too tight, a little practice makes it pop. 



100 



MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 




AEROPLANE AND GLIDER. Buoyancy and balance are 
essential requirements in the construction of aeroplanes and gliders. 
The strips for the aeroplane, Fig. 1 , should be made of bamboo splints. 
If bamboo is not available, a light-weight straight-grained wood such 
as spruce or white pine should be used. Cut the pieces to the desired 
size and tie the corners of the plane frames with a fine thread. Slight 
indentations or notches where the thread crosses will keep the pieces 
in place. After the frames are made, cover them with a light-weight 
cloth or thin tough paper. Oiled silk which is sold by the druggists 
is best because it is waterproof, but it is rather expensive. The 
frames should be fastened to the center beam in the same way that 
the corners were fastened together. A few spots of glue will help 
to hold it firmly. After this is dry attach a cord from the front 
corners to the center beam and pull taut until the corners of the 
front plane are raised as shown in Fig. 1 . By means of propellers and 
a rubber band for the motive power, an aeroplane can be made such 
as is shown in the center figure of the photograph. The propeller, 
of a thin metal, can be made as suggested in Fig. 4 on page 35. 

The construction of the glider shown in Fig. 2 has been suggested 
by Mr. Hackett, Supervisor of Manual Arts, Reading, Pa. The 
rudder and planes should be made of stiff, tough paper. Slot the 
end of the shaft and insert the rudder; then, with glue and nails, 
fasten the planes to the center shaft. The forward or smaller one 
should be turned up slightly, and the back one hollowed as shown in 



AEROPLANE AND GLIDER 



101 



AEROPLANE AND GLIDER 



FIG. I 

TOP VIEW 




side: view 



TOP VIEW 
FIG. 2. 




SIDE VIEW 



FRONT 
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the side view of Fig. 2. To put the glider in motion hold the shaft 
in the fingers and throw it forward ; or insert one end of a rubber band 
in the notch on the under side of the shaft and stretch as in a sling- 
shot. When released the glider will shoot forward. 



102 



MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 




ANIMALS WITH MOVABLE PARTS. Figs. 1 and 3 show pos- 
sibilities of cam movements made with a brad nailed to the axle. 
Fig. 2 shows a balancing or pendulum effect. In Fig. 1, the head 
pivots on the far end with the cam action in the middle part. In the 
photograph, the second figure on the top row shows one of the sides 
removed with the head raised by the nail and the head just ready to 
fall. In Fig. 3, the head pivots in the middle with the cam movement 
at the end. This type works easier than that in Fig. 1 , but it is impor- 
tant that the lower end be the heavier so as to keep the head in an 
upright position. The bottom of the head must also be heavier in the 
balancing type as shown in Fig. 2. If it is desired that the tail move, 
it may be fitted up as suggested for the head. 

All movable parts must turn freely. A wire may be used for the 
axle instead of a rod. For the cam, a projection can be soldered to 
the wire, or the wire can be bent " U "-shaped in the middle to give 
the cam effect and thus take the place of the projection. The " U ' 
shape or crank projection pushes the movable part back and forth. 

Wheels can be turned on the lathe, or sawed from a round piece of 
wood, or made with a washer cutter, or spools and button molds used. 

Animal forms made to stand are suggested by the goat, donkey, 
and elephant in the photograph. The body part can be made solid * 
with grooves cut in the ends to receive the head or tail. The head 
can fit between the two sides of the body, and the legs and arms 
fitted on each side. The movable parts should not swing freely, but 



ANIMALS WITH MOVABLE PARTS 



103 



Anif1AL5 WITH" HEAD MOVEMENTS 



TOP VIEW 




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must fit tightly on the pivot so that they may hold in any position. 
The toys made by the Dux Toy Company, of Concord, N. H., offer 
many suggestions for problems, such as the movable jaw, head, or leg, 
of dogs, ducks, frogs, alligators, grasshoppers, chickens, or birds. 



104 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 




SPREADER — PRESS — CASE. The insect spreader as sug- 
gested in Fig. 1 is lined with cork or soft wood or cardboard. Note 
that the top pieces are inclined slightly toward the middle. To con- 
struct, first bevel the top pieces and then fasten them to the cross 
pieces. Next fasten on the pieces of cork or soft wood, and lastly 
nail on the bottom. Dr. Hodge's chapter on " Insect Study " should 
be read before attempting work in mounting. 1 

The construction of the mounting case is shown in Fig. 3. On a 
piece of glass the desired size of the case fasten narrow strips of wood 
just the thickness of the largest specimen. Fasten the strips to the 
edge of the glass with shellac, and you have a box with glass bottom 
and wooden sides the depth of the largest specimen. The specimen 
should be fastened to the glass with minute drops of glue where it 
touches the glass. Glue sometimes dries so hard that it scales off on 
the glass. To prevent this, twenty drops of glycerine should be 
added to each ounce of glue. After the specimens are set, cover the 
box with a piece of glass just the size of the bottom piece and bind 
the two glass covers to the box with a strip of gummed passepartout 
tape around the edge wide enough to hide the wooden frame. This 
method of mounting suggested by Dr. Hodge enables one to see both 
sides of the insects, which is a great advantage over the old plan. 

In the construction of the press as suggested in Fig. 2, two nails 
should be put in each lap. The nails should be long enough to be 

1 C. F. Hodge, Nature-study in Life, p. 56. 



SPREADER — PRESS — CASE 



105 



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bent over and clinched. Two sides must be made. Two pieces of 
bookbinder's board or heavy cardboard should be used between the 
two sides. To hold the straps in place put on strips of leather, or 
strips of metal as shown in the photograph. 



106 



MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 



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THE ROLLER COASTER. In hilly localities there is always 
a great demand for the roller coaster. For most boys the making of 
the wheels and axles is a difficult undertaking and is apt to result in 
discouragement. For satisfactory results, they should be of hard 
wood, turned on the lathe or sawed on the band saw, and accurately 
bored. If it is desirable to secure them ready made it will be found 
that some woodworking mills are always willing to use up their scrap 
lumber in making them, provided a sufficiently large order is given. 
The most convenient and inexpensive way is to arrange with the 
local toy or candy shop to buy them wholesale and retail them to 
the boys as needed. Sets of two sizes are manufactured by E. B. 
Estes & Sons, 74 Warren Street, New York City. The wheels of the 
smaller size are 3|" in diameter by f" thick, and the axles are 15" 
long by |" square; the wheels of the larger size are 5|" in diameter 
by |" thick, and the axles are 19" long by •§" square. These are sold 
to the trade by E. B. Estes & Sons, so as to retail the smaller size 
with a reasonable profit at ten cents per set (4 wheels and 2 axles). 
They are of a hard wood and reasonably well made. 

The simplest form of roller coaster is herewith shown. It is made 
by fastening the axles directly to the body board. A heavy cord 
fastened to the front axle can be used for steering, and a cross piece 
can be used for a foot rest as shown in Fig. 1 . The heel of the shoe 
touching the ground serves the purpose of a brake. In the wheels 
and axles sold by E. B. Estes & Sons, three kinds of holes are already 



THE ROLLER COASTER 



107 



ROLLER-COASTER 



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provided in the axles : a bolt hole in the center of the front axle, holes 
for screws to fasten the axle to the body board, and holes for nails at 
the ends of the axles to prevent the wheels from coming off. For 
further construction of Roller Coasters see pages 1 26 and 1 27. 



108 



MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 



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TABLES. See page xxi for general suggestions on furniture con- 
struction. The simplest type of a table is that shown in Fig. 4 and 
in the photograph. This type of construction has already been de- 
scribed in rustic furniture on pages 18 and 19. The usual type of 
table construction is that in which the rails are mortised into the legs, 
but for our purpose this type requires too much technique and takes 
too much time for construction. 

Fig. 1 shows the square legs with the rails fastened around the 
outside of them. This construction with the legs tapered is shown 
in the photograph. To construct, fasten the end rails to the legs 
first, next fasten on the side rails, and lastly the top. If no nail holes 
are desired in the top, blocks must be used to glue the top to the side 
rails. In Fig. 2 the legs are each made of two pieces joined at the 
edge, forming a right angle. To construct, first nail the wide part of 
the leg to the end rail, letting it project the thickness of the rail plus 
the thickness of the leg piece. Next fasten the side rails in place, and 
lastly fasten the side pieces of the leg in place, being careful to have 
a tight joint in the leg. Be sure to chamfer or round the bottom edges. 

Tables with round, square, or octagonal tops can best be constructed 
as in Figs. 4 and 5. In the Fig. 4 type of table the shelf and the rail 
piece should be thick enough to act as braces. They should be shaped 
up together by pinning the pieces together with two nails or brads. 
The edges must be perfectly square, and the legs securely fastened to 
them. 



TABLES 



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In Fig. 5 the pedestal and feet can be cut from a solid block, but 
a crosslap joint is therein suggested. The foot pieces are set up into 
one end of the pedestal, and the top of the table fastened to the opposite 
end. 



110 



MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 




MORRIS CHAIRS. For furniture construction, see page xxi. 

The morris chair leads in interest with both boys and girls. In 
this construction it must be remembered that it has not been planned 
full size for ordinary use, but for doll furniture to be readily made 
by young children. When well put together it stands hard usage. 

To assemble the chair as shown in the drawing, first fasten the legs 
to the seat with one brad in each leg, and then fasten the rails to the 
legs, first the side rails and then the front and back rails. Before 
putting the back rail into place, secure the back of the chair to it by 
means of a strip of leather or cloth, so as to hold in place the stop for 
the back, and then fasten the arms on top of the posts and legs. 

If better construction is desired, the rails can be gained into the 
legs as suggested in the lower left-hand corner of the bottom view. 
The morris chair to the right in the photograph is also of this construc- 
tion, while in the one to the left the construction is of the simpler type. 

If cushions are not used, the rails must be high enough so that 
the top of the seat is the proper height and even with the top of rails. 

Cushions can be made with one seam as the ones on the chair 
shown in the photograph. The more desirable ones are made like 
those shown between the two chairs. This construction is suggested 
in the drawing. One piece each is cut for the top and the bottom, 
and one strip for sides and ends. These sewed together make a 
rectangular box shape. Leave one seam partly open, pack with cot- 
ton, and then sew this seam up. To hold the cotton in place and to 



MORRIS CHAIRS 



111 



W» life size MORRIS CHAIR for io m to ir dolls 

SCALE 



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SEAT PIECE MUST BE. EVEN 
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CHAMFER OR R0UI1D 
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STOCK 

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prevent the cotton from massing in one place, tack through from top 

to bottom in several places as shown in the side view of the drawing. 

If the rails have been gained into the legs, the inside of the chair 

will be J" wider; and the cushion should be J" wider than planned. 



112 



MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 




BEDS. For remarks on furniture construction, see general sug- 
gestions on page xxi. The construction of the bed (Fig. 1 of the draw- 
ing) is shown in the photograph. It must be remembered that this 
type of furniture construction is not designed full size for ordinary 
use in the home, but for the furnishing of the doll house to be made 
by the young children. The rails of the head and foot pieces are 
gained into the posts, and the uprights of the head and foot pieces are 
nailed to these rails on the inside, as seen on the right in the photograph. 
If less work is desired, the rails can be nailed directly to the posts with- 
out gaining them in, and the uprights can be omitted as is shown on 
the left in the photograph. If even less work than this is desired, 
the head and foot boards can be made solid of a single piece each. The 
main objection to this is that pieces this wide are liable to split warp. 

To assemble the parts, fasten all of the pieces of the headboard 
together with glue and nails. Two nails should be used in each joint 
at the end of the uprights so as to brace the pieces properly. Next, 
fasten the slat supports to the inside of the side rails to the head and 
foot boards. To prevent the slats from getting lost, fasten them in 
place with a drop of glue and a brad at each end. 

A crib can be made by making the bed a smaller size, but with 
the side rails higher to prevent the baby from rolling out. 

If a cradle is desired, make a box with the end pieces wide and 
long enough to form the rockers. A medium size cigar box may be 
used, and the rockers fastened to the ends. 



BEDS 



113 



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Mattresses can be made of a cloth covering and stuffed with cotton, 
excelsior, or hair. It should be tacked through from top to bottom 
in several places to keep the stuffing in place. For further description 
of mattresses see pages 1 1 and 111. 



114 



MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 




GARDEN TOOLS. These tools can be used in the sand pile or 
in the garden after the hard soil has first been broken up. 

After the working edges of the hoe and the spade have been tapered 
to |" or less in thickness, a piece of tin or thin sheet iron should be 
fastened around it with common wire nails long enough so that they 
can be bent over and clinched. The handles make excellent problems 
in round modeling. See pages 60 and 61. For the larger children 
the handle should be 1" in diameter or better still, f" x 1^". 

Broom sticks make excellent handles for the hoe and the rake. 
When boring the holes for the handles, note that the handle of the 
hoe inclines slightly toward the front edge, and that the handle of 
the rake slants slightly away from this edge. The size of the hole in 
the rake block should not be larger than § " in diameter. Fasten the 
handles in with glue, and secure by hammering a nail in from the top. 

A simple, but less strong, rake can be made by fastening the handle 
to the top surface of the block piece. The teeth for the rake should 
be made of 1 0d, common wire nails. To prevent the block piece from 
splitting, | M holes must be bored which are slightly smaller than the 
diameter of the nail. The nails must fit tightly. Tack a piece of 
sheet iron over the heads of the nails. 

In making the spade, the top crosspiece and the blade must be 
securely fastened to the handle. Glue and fasten them with small 
carriage or stove bolts, or with nails long enough for the points to be 
bent over and clinched. The top end of the handle can be cross-lapped 



GARDEN TOOLS 



115 



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-+e- 



*M 



u 



1+ 



into the top piece and the lower end recessed into the blade §" or ^-". 
For a snow shovel the beveled part of the handle can be fastened 
to the front of the blade, and the blade can be made twice as wide. 
The handle should be made without the cross-piece. 



116 



MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 



V 



/ 





SEESAW AND SAND BOX. The teeter or seesaw, as sug- 
gested by Fig. 1, can be made any length and height desired. The 
teeter board should be straight-grained. The ends of it can be cut 
round, and the edges should be well rounded off. The lock block 
should be cut to receive the pivot and then fastened with screws to 
the center of the board. To prevent the board from wearing in the 
center, a strip of sheet metal can be fastened to the board where it 
comes in contact with the pivot. The pivot can be of iron or steel 
f " in diameter ; and, if for use by the larger children, it should be 1". 

The uprights should be driven into the ground far enough to secure 
a firm foundation. If it is desired to move the teeter from place to 
place, a base can be used nstead. This would require fastening the 
uprights to a rectangular frame and securing it firmly by means of 
braces in both directions. The arrangement shown in Fig. 1 allows 
for the removal of the board so that it can be put indoors out of the 
weather. Strips fastened across the ends of the uprights will lock the 
board in place and thus prevent it from being removed. 

Fig. 2 is a suggested construction of a sand box 8 feet square. 
Strips across the corners, at the top and the bottom, are suggested 
for the braces. They are shown fastened to the edges of the sides, 
but a much stronger construction is to let them down into the edge 
of the sides. Large angle irons can take the place of the wooden braces. 
Strips of sheet metal fastened along the corners on the outside will 
also help to hold the corners together. 



SEESAW AND SAND BOX 



117 



SEE-SAW - SAND-BOX 





STOCK 

I TEETER BOARD_ 8 " X l%"X I6'-Q" 

2. UPRIGHTS 6" X Z." A.5'-0' 

I LOCK-BLOCK 7T* I %"A 12." 



I ROM PIVOT. 



.H"^WX 15" 



SCALE 



'I'l'l'l'l' 



FIG. Z. 



STOCK 

4- SIDES 10" X 1^" X8'-0" 

4 TOP BRACES £>£" A >1" "A U" 

4 BOTTOM BRACES-4/i' N ^" X 2.0" 



ML 



If the box is to be covered, it should be made narrower. If the box 
is 4 feet wide, the lid can be made of four boards 12" wide. Fasten 
them together with strap hinges. If the wooden lid is not desirable 
on account of weight, make a rectangular frame with a canvas cover. 



MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 




JOINTED DOLLS. These dolls can easily be made by the younger 
children if a plain construction is used such as suggested in Fig. 1 . 
Considerable care is necessary in locating the position of the nails 
and in putting them in, else they are liable to split the wood and 
necessitate making the pieces over again. 

The slip joint construction as suggested in Fig. 2 requires much 
time and very careful work. The size suggested in the drawing is 
one-sixth life size, but for the younger children this size is somewhat 
too small. If a large size is desired, such as one-fourth life size, the 
best plan is to measure the size from life and divide by four. This 
will make a doll about 16" instead of 10" or 11" high. 

In selecting the material it is very necessary that perfectly straight 
grain wood is selected, else the pieces will break off at the joints. In 
cutting the parts simplify the outline. The dowel in the head should 
be a tight fit, but readily adjustable. All the joints should be tight 
so as to be able to hold any pose desired. After locating the position 
of the nails or dowels, be careful to bore the holes at perfect right 
angles to the surface of the wood. If wire nails are used for the joints, 
the ends can be bent over and clinched. If a large-sized doll is made, 
f " stove bolts can be used and the nut on the end can be sunk into the 
wood below the surface. The bolts can be run across the entire width 
at the shoulders and the hips. 

Such dolls in the drawing room serve excellently for poses. Dolls 
to be used in connection with the house and the home furnishings 



JOINTED DOLLS 



119 



JOIhTED DOLL J*™ life size. 

SCALE. 



FIG. 2. 




FtG. I 



o 







STOCK 
I BODY 

^ upper mns 

2. TORE ARMS 
2. THIGH LEGS 
ZCALFLEGS 
2. FEET 
I HEAD 
lOQWCLJOtXIjt 



FRONT VIE.W 



side: view 




should be an appropriate size. Clothing to be put on and taken off 
can be made for them. The boy dressed, as shown in the photograph, 
is one of the " Do With " models manufactured by C. Pratt, 9 Jones 
Street, New York City. 



120 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 




RUNNING GRASSHOPPER. The grasshopper affords play for 
individuality in design. This can best be done by cutting paper 
outlines and using them as templates. Make the body wide to keep 
it from tipping over. If a narrow piece is used for the body, it is 
necessary to fasten lead or other metal to the underneath part of the 
body to avoid toppling over. 

The legs can be fastened to the body at the shoulders, or they can 
be fastened to the wheels as shown in the photograph. The rear end 
of the leg should be fastened to the outside of the wheel in order to 
get the up-and-down eccentric movement. The wings may be fastened 
so as to be stationary ; but if desired, a movement of the wings can 
be arranged. A slot in the wing through which a screw can be entered 
and fastened to the back part of the leg will admit of an up-and-down 
movement of the wing with every revolution of the rear wheels, as 
is shown in the drawing and in the middle figure of the photograph. 

A ratchet wheel can be arranged underneath to give forth a click- 
ing sound such as described on pages 96-98. If so, the axle for the front 
wheels must be of one piece and fastened tightly to the wheels. On 
the middle of this front axle must be tightly fastened the ratchet wheel, 
which can be made from an empty spool. The underneath part of 
the body must be cut or hollowed out to receive this wheel ; and on the 
bottom of the body must be fastened a thin strip, so arranged that 
the free end of the strip will touch the ratchet teeth, which revolv- 
ing, sets the strip vibrating and produces a clicking sound. 



RUNNING GRASSHOPPER 



121 



RUNNING GRASSHOPPER 






_ y 















<0 


+ 


(j "—ICQ 


~ p wing 




-4-%- 




H— lt"- 


-.!«■ 


"4i" 


-+£ 






It 




© 


5ACf\ LEG 


■) 






1 " 


J c 


a '" 


— ^ 






'8 


f 


^-4- • 














1 





I BODY 2." X.1%" XI4&" Z TORE LEGS— &"**■>#£ 2- WINGS ^"x.^.'xm" 

4- WHEELS i/4." Dl^.^J/i" 2. BflCIS LELG5_ ^.'XJ^'V/l" 2. TRAILE.RS_/2."'A/ / 8"X.£)" 



Ml. 



Large spools can be used for the wheels. The grasshopper can be 
made large enough for the children to ride upon. If so, use the roller 
coaster wheels as suggested on page 106. If desired make the head 
movable on a cam or balance, as on pages 1 02 and 1 03, 



122 



MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 




SAILBOAT. The sailboat herewith suggested has had a great 
demand in the vacation schools. 

The hull is made of §" or 1|" stuff. A good outline of the two 
sides can be obtained by taking a piece of paper the size desired, 
doubling it lengthwise, and cutting with scissors or knife. Be sure 
that the greatest width is in the forward half. After the desired 
shape is obtained, the paper can be glued to the top surface of the 
wood, or the outline can be traced. Trim to shape, then on the center 
line bore one hole for the mast forward of the center and one hole 
near the end for the rudder. Cut out the keel and fasten in place 
with nails or screws from the top side. Next, cut out the rudder and 
trim the upper end round to fit and turn freely in the hole already bored. 
The rudder must be slipped into the hull piece before fastening on the 
handle, which must be done securely with glue. Next, take the strip 
of tin or sheet metal and fasten it to the bottom edge of the keel and 
the rudder. With one nail in the rudder, the metal will hold the rudder 
up in place and yet allow it to swing around on this pivot. 

The mast can now be tapered and fitted tightly in the hole pre- 
viously bored for it. Strips of wire can be bound to one end each of 
the gaff and the boom, to form loops which must be large enough to 
let them slip into place over the mast. A piece of waterproof cloth 
can be used for the sails. Fasten them as shown in the drawing with 
a cord to the top of the mast. Two nails should be driven into the 
hull for the cleat to which the boom is fastened by means of a cord. 



SAILBOAT 



123 



SAILBOAT 

TOPV1E.W WITHOUT SAIL 



STOCK 

I HULL_6J4"X7/ a "X /5"' 
I KEE.L_2#'XI£"X II" 

/ numuM'^" K S" 

IHfl«OLE..t/iL ,, X'%" \z%" 
IMflST_ Ki"X)i" X 16" 

i soon _ 3 /a"X 3-6" x !*." 

I Gfirr_ 3-6" X •V&" X 6&" 
I LEflD_H" X 3 /a"X7/j" 
I TIN 4>/6" /n 2." 

cLorn_/2." * <3" 




LEAD BRLUWST^ STRIP OF W PIVOT* 
-14- 




4- 
^KFXL 
RUDDEf\ 
_!D^-Bf\UJ\ST 

BACK VIE1W 
WITHOUT MAST 



SCALE 



. 6" 4 



m 



J 



Fasten enough ballast of lead or other metal to the keel to keep the 
boat upright in a stiff wind. The farther the ballast is below the water 
line, the more effective it is in keeping the boat upright. When the 
keel is not very deep, the ballast can be suspended by means of wires. 



124 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 




WHEELBARROW AND WAGON. Wheelbarrows and wagons 
should be made large enough for practical use in the garden and the 
sand pile. The larger size can be made more satisfactorily than the 
small toy size, and if properly constructed will last for years. 

The wheel for the barrow can be obtained from some discarded 
wagon, or it can be sawed out from a solid piece of hard wood, or 
bought at the store. See page 106. If the axle is made of a square 
piece as suggested by Fig. 1 , a square hole must be made in the center 
of the wheel, and the ends of the axle rounded so as to revolve in holes 
bored in the ends of the shafts. If a round rod or dowel is used for 
the axle, the wheel must be securely fastened to it. Round the handles 
of the shafts. The bottom piece must be cut out so that the grain 
runs across and not lengthwise. 

To put together the wheelbarrow as shown in Fig. 1, first fasten 
the wheel to the center of the axle and slip the axle into the holes in 
the ends of the shafts. The axle can be held in place by means of 
nails or cotter pins. The holes should be waxed before slipping the 
axle into place. Now fasten the bottom to the shafts, nailing it securely 
in place. Next, fasten the back and side pieces in place. Lastly, 
fasten the legs very securely to the sides of the barrow by clinching 
the nails or by the use of bolts. The use of angle irons or strips of 
metal at the corners makes a strong barrow. The wagon body (Fig. 
2) is a box with one end arranged as a tailboard. Use angle irons 
or strips of metal to reenforce the corners. For fastening the wheels 



WHEELBARROW AND WAGON 



125 



WHEEL-BARROW AMD WAGON 




STOCK FOR WHEEL- BARROW 

Z. HANDLES I 'A" XW X 36" 

2. LEGS IJ4"X>t"/, 15" 

I WHEEI 5'/i!' 131 AH. \ 2£" " 

I AX.LE___3/V X44-" XII" 

2. SIDES 7 " X '/%." X /3>l" 

I BOTTOM 13/*." X Ki" X/3/i" 

I BACK 7" X </tl' X M" 



TOP VIEW 



FIG. I 



ENDVIEW 



STOCK FOR WAGON BODY 

I 60TTOH 14-" X H" X£7>t" 

Z. SIDES .6"X^."AA.8" 

I EiriO_ 6" X ^"X 14" 

I TAILB0ARD_iXxri"X.'3^Q" 

4 GUIDE5_ I" X V^'7^.5/4' 

I SET OF WHEELS AMD AXLES WITH AXLE BLOCKS 



SCALE. 




rTfi 

i i i 

i ii i 

n i 

lUJ J 



•SIDE VIEW 



and axles see Roller Coasters on page 126. A board or part of a pack- 
ing box can be used for the seat. Long nails can be used to fasten 
the shafts to the axle block, but a bolt running the full width of the 
wagon body is best. A harnessed goat or dog can be used to draw it. 



126 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 




ROLLER COASTERS. For suggestions concerning wheels and 
axles, see page 106. As shown in Fig. 1 , the rear axles can be fastened 
to the body with nails or screws. A large nail can be used to pivot 
the front axle, but a bolt is much better. A washer between the front 
axle and the body enables the front axle to turn easily. The cotter 
pins are best to keep the wheels on, but nails with the ends turned are 
sufficient. Grease the axles before putting on the wheels. 

The body board is cut away as shown in Fig. 2. The combination 
seat and tool box can be made by hinging the top of the box as seen 
in the photograph. An auto effect can be made by the arrangement 
of several boxes of suitable size. The steering can be done with a rope 
as seen in the photograph, or with the feet as arranged for in Figs. 1 
and 2. The front of the body board must be narrow to give room for 
the feet on either side. If very accurate mortise and tenon work 
can be done, an upright with a steering wheel or crossbar, as shown in 
the photograph, can be used. This will take the place of the bolt. A 
hard wood broom handle makes a good upright. At one end cut a 
tenon about j^" by §", as suggested in Fig. 3. Cut a mortise in the 
front axle to receive this tenon, and fasten it securely into place. 

Three forms of brakes are herewith shown : Fig. 2 and the photo- 
graph show a direct wheel brake and a ground brake ; and the second 
figure in the photograph shows a brake-shoe arrangement. 

If more finish is desired, carefully round or run |" or -j^-" chamfers 
all around the top edge of the body-board. If large boxes are to be 



ROLLER COASTERS 



127 



ROLLER-COASTER 



n 



TT 



STOCK 

I BODY 10" "A 34." x 3d" 

+ WHEELS 3'/£ Dlf\M. * %" 

2. AXLES . %"X 7/Q X IS" 

1 cross piece 2." x %'x n" 

2. BLOCKS £"x %"x 2." 

I BOLT V$ DIAH- * 2-%" 





1 i 

HOLE FOR COTTER PIN OR MIL^^E— 



■36' 



-■ol^ 



n — r 



SIDE VIEW 

scale: 




FIG. I 



TI'i'i'i'HT'T 1 ' 
< g" — ■ 



.STOCK , 
I B0DY_ll&'x% X36 

4- wheels y/£mn*%" 

I AXLES %"K%"xlS" ; 
1 BLOCIV^Xl^'X^' = 
I BLOCK. Z&'XIfc"* II" 
50LT__^"DlAMX5" 




^ 



0< -MSIU 



'O 




I 



|**fc 



2 

E 
UJ 



02.' 



L_J_ 



__1 ^U 



FIG.!£ 



Hp I 1 



GROUMD BRAKE- 




5TEERit1(i 

WttEEL 

POST 



DID CUT 
TO FIT MORTISE ^ 
lit f ROUT A*LE ,b 



M 



FiG.3 



_m. 



hauled, the body must be raised above the wheels by means of the 
blocks as seen in Fig. 2, so that the top surface of the body will clear 
the top of the wheels. If this is done, a large packing box may take 
the place of the body board. 



128 



MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 



VAULTING POLE — STANDARD — HURDLE. The vaulting 
pole should be made of a strong, straight grained, light weight wood 
such as white pine or spruce. For the younger boys, make it 6 feet 
long by 1^" diameter. Cut square; then model round. See page 60. 

Drive a large nail or a piece of steel 
into the end. Let it project at least 
an inch and be ground or filed to a 
point. To prevent splitting, wrap 
with fine wire for several inches. 

The vaulting or jumping standard 
involves the crosslap, and mortise 
and tenon joints. Cut the tenon on 
the end of the upright with a |" 
shoulder. Bore the holes for the 
pegs, upon which the cords rest, 
at right angles to the length of the 
upright. Cut a ^" chamfer or round 
on the upper corners of the foot 
pieces. The sharp corners of the 
uprights should be taken off. Paint 
the figures on the upright before 
assembling the pieces. In fastening 
the parts together be careful that 
the upright is at perfect right angles 
to the foot. A 4" angle iron fas- 
tened at each side is necessary. 

Dowels or large sized nails can 
be used to hold the cord. For the 
cord use a piece of fine rope about 
1 2 feet long, at each end of which fasten a triangular shaped bag filled 
with sand or gravel ; and a piece of white cloth at the center. 

A 30" hurdle is suggested by Fig. 3. The legs are fastened to 
the top with an end-lap joint. If a If" thickness is used for the top 
pieces, the work can be laid out as suggested by the end view of 
the top piece in Fig. 3. This joint can be cut with the back saw. 




VAULTING POLE — STANDARD — HURDLE 



129 



VAULTING POLE - STANDARD - HURDLE 



TOP VIELW 



T 






l*a£l 



o 



Q 



til 



FIG. I 



-ttoLta 

fOSPE63 



TEtlOMED 
EMDOF 
UPRIGHT 

J3Pi 



w 



SI DEL VIEW 

STOCK 

2. FEET 3>i" X I J*." A I S" 

I UPRIGHT_1%"XI^."X72." 
4 STRIP5_-.IM-"^M-'7v^" 



FIG. 2. 




*WIRE ' 



m 



STOCK 

i pole: 
\%" DW.Y\&'-Q" 



M. 



STOCK 

4 LEGS 3>i" X M" X aOJi" 

Z. BRACES 3>£ " A >i" A 10" 

1 TOE_ 3>S." XJ% n A 4-5" 



SCALE. 

I] I Ml lllll I II IIIMNII 



II.- 



Fasten with glue and nails, screws, or bolts. If nails are used, clinch 
them. If more advanced technique is desired, the legs can be set into 
the top piece away from the ends and slanting outward so that the 
outer length at the bottom of the hurdle is about the same as at the top. 



130 



MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 




CHECKER, CHESS, AND BAGATEL BOARDS. For a 
simple checkerboard use a single piece of wood, or the bottom of a 
box. Lay out the squares not smaller than 1^" along each side. 
Trace the lines heavily and blacken each alternate square. The back 
of the board can be laid out for bagatel. See Fig. 3. 

For a folding board, small butt hinges can be used, or a piece of 
strong leather or cloth can be glued to the inside edges of the board. 

For advanced technique, a glued up or " inlaid " board is a good 
problem. Use a dark and a light wood. Plane up four strips each, 
exactly 1^" wide. See that they are parallel, with perfectly square 
edges. Glue up with alternating colors as in Fig. 2. From the ends 
of this piece cut off eight strips exactly 1 j" wide. See Fig. 2. These 
must be parallel, with perfectly square edges, else when arranged for 
gluing the squares will not match up properly. Arrange the strips 
with the proper arrangement of squares for the board as in Fig. 1. 
In this position glue them up, being careful that the outside edges of 
the large square thus formed are at perfect right angles to each other. 
An inch border strip of wood of another color about a middle value 
between the two kinds of wood already used, should be glued around 
the board. The corners of this border can have a butt joint, but a 
mitred joint is better. Plane the board smooth and level, and apply 
a natural finish of oil, white shellac, or varnish. 

The twenty-four checkers should be about 1" diameter and made 
of the same kind of wood as the board. They can be turned on the 



CHECKERS, CHESS, AND BAGATEL BOARDS 



131 



CHECKER CHESS OR BAGATEL BOARD 



1D I 



Eric lvie-w 




FIG. 3 



FIG. 2. 



va_< 



SAW 



:? 



METHOD Of 'GLUIMG UP STRIPS 

WITH darK'Aud light wood 

STOCK 

4 STRIPS OF DARK WOOD l&'W* \V 
4 STRIPS OF LIGHT WOOD l34'x%"x I2»" 
4 STRIPS OFHtWIWOOD f**$£X\L" 

STOCK POR ONE PIECE BOARD 

i piece: _ i V /n%."xiz." 

STOCK FOR TWO PIECE BOARD 

i PIECES- G" X^'xii" 

SCALE 



M 1 1 1 1 ' | ' I ' ' I ' 

* 4" » 



sa 



lathe or modeled with the plane. If necessary, they can be sawed from 
the end of a broom handle. The disks to be colored can be painted 
or dipped in ink. For chessmen round disks similarly made will 
answer if the names of the various pieces are indicated on the top. 



132 



MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 




ROLLER LOOM. The roller loom is used for continuous weaving. 
The frame is made with a slip joint ; but, if necessary, a plain butt 
joint may be used. If No. 6 screws are used to fasten the upright in 
place, a |" hole should be bored. The roller should revolve freely 
in the upright. The dowel pegs used for stops should fit tightly, 
else they are liable to fall out and get lost. A light tap should be re- 
quired to shift them in or out as desired. The nail or wire in the end of 
the roller should also be tight and just long enough at each end to be 
held between the projecting pegs. Holes must be bored for these 
nails before hammering them into place, else they will split the roller. 
Note that these nails at the ends of the roller are placed at right angles 
to each other. In marking off the 33 grooves on the roller, they should 
be marked off from the rule without moving it so as to insure keeping 
them exactly even and within the 8" space. The 33 warp threads 
of even length must be tied to the grooves of one roller, passed through 
the proper openings in the heddle, that is, into the round holes and 
openings between the strip alternately, and then tied to the grooves 
of the other roller as shown in the photograph. See also page 84. 
When a heddle is used, the alternating threads are raised and lowered 
with the one movement of the heddle so that the needle or shuttle 
can be passed back and forth. The heddle is also used to push the 
thread firmly into place. As the weaving progresses, the cloth is 
wound on one roller and the thread is unwound from the other one. 

The loom has served as excellent problems for individual experi- 



ROLLER LOOM 



133 



ROLLER LOOM 



TOP VIELW 



■» J I *ID& VME.W..' ■_* 




w^kw 



-i* 



STOCK FOB, FRf\MEl 

1 51DE5 1 7 /& x %" X I i" 

2 ENDS IT / a"X%"X I 0" 

4 UPRIGHTS \}£ i XH U X +& 

1 ROLLERS Kj'Dim- X 10%!' 

I2.STOPS- -^"Diatn. X 94" 

It 

-4V 



IE 



t" #16 Bf\f\DS AT F\lGttT fllJ6l.ES TO EACK0THO\* 
9f- 



:q m& 



p- 



co 



•ale 


< :«- — — ■— io 


=j> 


,11 z 

1 


CO 

r 


J 4 

EMC) 


18 

r 


"3® 

VjfcO 



UPRIGHT 

SCALE 



I 'I'l 1 1 ; i 'I' 1 ' 
— . — 4 " ^ 



PA 



mentation. Many mechanical contrivances to facilitate the work of 
weaving have been worked out by classes. Many types of the heddles 
have been constructed, of which the one shown in the drawing is the 
best. Looms requiring more complex processes can be constructed. 



134 



MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 




AQUARIA OR VIVARIA. Every schoolroom should have one or 
more fairly large aquaria so as to study the various forms of life at 
first hand. Filled with water, many forms of aquatic life can be stud- 
ied ; filled with earth it can be used as a root cage to study plant life 
at first hand ; while with air alone it can be used as a breeding cage 
to study animal life. 

The aquarium suggested by the drawing is a good size for practical 
purposes in the school. With a partition in the middle, two different 
kinds of aquatic life can be housed. For convenient handling by the 
children and for home uses, the single small aquarium is best. Many 
good objections are made to the usual wooden aquarium. The one 
suggested, although of wood, is not that of the usual wooden type. 
The best type of construction for the frame is the one made of metal as 
suggested by Dr. Hodge in Nature Study and Life on page 394. In 
some schools or homes, however, the construction of the metal frame 
is not possible. The wooden frame herewith designed has been 
planned to meet such conditions. When constructed properly, it 
has been found to serve its purpose very satisfactorily. 

The method of construction is as follows : First fasten the battens 
on the bottom board, and cover the upper surface and edges with 
enamel, copal varnish, tin, oilcloth, or some substance that is water- 
proof. This protection for the wood is necessary, otherwise, if the 
receptacle leaks ever so slightly, the bottom board would swell up 
and cause the opening of many of the joints. Next, nail the two 



AQUARIA OR VIVARIA 



135 



AQUARIA ORVIVARIA 

-ropviE-W 




[ BflTTE.fi 1 



01 DEVI 

STOCK FOR DOUBLE AQUARIUM 

I BOTTOM BOARD 10" X 34" X££" 

2. BOTTOM BATTELS 3" X^"X9^" 

4- CORNER UPRIGHTS (hnps)_I^' X >^'X7%" 
4 CORNER UPRIGHTS (SiDESJL/^." X yi'X7%." 

1 MIDDLE UPRIGHTS (5ides)_I >i" X >1" X 7^' 
X BOTTOM STRIPS C&NDS)__>1" X%"X8^" 
2. BOTTOM STRIPS (3IDE5) >l" X^"X2-I%" 
£ TOP STRIPS (ENDS) ^-" X.%"X7^" 

2 TOP STRIPS (5IDE.S) |" X^";>U%" 

4 TOP STRIPS (5T0PS)_3/6" X ^."XIO^" 

3 GLASS ENDS 8" X 8" 

6 GLASS SIDES <wB0TTOn 6" X IQ" 

I top siots of lid i" x y£r.u 3 £ 

l BOTTOM SIDES OF LI D_l" X J4-"XI9%" 

2. TOP ENDS OF LID /" X J4'X We," 

Z. BOTTOM ENDS OF LID>_I" X XTX^" 



E W 1 8ATTEH [ 



STOCK FOR SINGLE AQUARIUM 

I BOTTOM BOARD 10" X */£' X II" 

I BOTTOM BATTENS 3" X34"X9?4" 

4 CORNER UPRIGHTS (em>s)J%"x Kjl' X 7^-" 
4 CORMER UPRIGHTS C5I0E3)J>4"X H." X7%-" 
2. 50TT0M STRIPS (£.mds)_/2." X M' /-&%" 
BOTTOM ST R I PS (5 1 DES)_ J<£' X 3 /6 KUVq" 

TOP STRIPS (ENDS) %■" X %" X7^e" 

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corner upright pieces together, and then nail the bottom strips in place 
on the ends of these uprights. Place in position on the bottom board. 
Now tack the top strips on temporarily with a nail at each corner. 
The glass used can be old photograph negatives, 8" x 10", which may 



136 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 

be easily cleaned off by using a hot solution of sal soda or other alkali. 
When the pieces of glass are ready for placing, the cement should be 
prepared. Dr. Hodge suggests several receipts. He says : 'A good 
aquarium cement, for either fresh or salt water, is made by mixing 
dry ten parts each, by measure, of fine, dry, white sand, plaster-of- 
Paris, and litharge, and one part powdered resin. Mix, as required, 
to a stiff putty with boiled linseed oil. (This oil must be warranted 
free from any adulteration with fish oil, and it is commonly necessary 
to buy raw oil of a practical painter, who should know that it is pure, 
and boil it for a few minutes, to drive off the water in the raw oil.) 
The simplest and best aquarium cement, the formula of which has 
been given me recently by the United States Fish Commission, is 
made as follows : Stir together dry, by weight, eight parts putty (dry 
whiting), one part red lead, and one part litharge. Mix, as wanted 
for use, with pure raw linseed oil, to a consistency of stiff putty." x 

To lay the glass, first put a thin layer of cement around the bottom 
corners. Then set the glass down in it, leaving a 1 ^-" of cement between 
the surface of the glass and the wood. Next, lay the side, and then 
the end pieces in the same way. In all but the very small sizes the 
corners should be reinforced by filling the corners with cement and 
then laying over this a narrow piece of glass to protect the cement 
from the water. Extra care must be taken in pressing the glass in 
position, else it is liable to break. Hold the glass firmly against the 
frame while the cement is drying. To do this Dr. Hodge suggests 
the springing in of some limber green twigs. Trim off all the extra 
cement at the joints. After the glass is all cemented into place, 
the stop pieces should be fastened to the top strips. These pieces 
are located under the top strip along the sides, and are used to hold 
the glass up in place. These stops should be just long enough to 
touch the end pieces of glass, and the edge of the stops should press 
against the side pieces of glass. After locating the position of the 
stops, the top strips, which have been but temporarily fastened on, 
can be taken off, and the stops more easily fastened to them. The 
top strips should then be securely fastened in place. 

1 C. F. Hodge, Nature Study and Life, p. 399. 



AQUARIA OR VIVARIA 137 

If a cover or lid is desired, it can be hinged along the edge. The 
eight pieces specified for the lid are used to make the frame of the lid. 
A piece of fine mesh wire netting, slightly smaller than the outside 
size of the aquarium, is necessary; 9" x21" for the double one, and 
9" x 11" for the single one. This is fastened between the two thick- 
nesses of the wood, and the nails are securely clinched to hold it. 

This aquarium should be set away for a week or more so as to allow 
the cement to harden. Dr. Hodge suggests the putting on of one or 
two coats of copal or spar varnish around the seams on the inside. 
No leak is likely to occur, but if it should occur, dry the aquarium 
thoroughly, and apply one or two coats of the copal varnish. 

Dr. Hodge's directions for setting up an aquarium are as follows : 
' First, put in about two inches of sand, washed until a stream of 
water runs off clear ; then, with the sand only moist, set the plants 
about the corners, making furrows in the sand in different directions 
and laying the roots in them ; finally, arrange the pebbles, shells, and 
larger stones about the bottom where they will keep the plants in 
place. Next, pour in the water up to within an inch of the top, hold- 
ing the hand or a piece of thin board to break the force of the stream, 
and avoid washing the plants loose. Finally, put in a fresh water 
clam or two, some snails, a few tadpoles (if the fishes will allow of it) 
to keep the water clean, and, after a day or two, such fishes — not 
more than two or three — as it is desired to study. Overcrowding 
is the common temptation to be resisted. Allow one gallon of water 
to each fish three inches long, and where enough water plants are 
present to oxygenate the aquarium, the fishes will show by their actions, 
quiet movements, and breathing, that they are comfortable. 

'How often does the water require changing? The answer is: 
' Not once a year, if the animals and plants and light are properly 
balanced and regulated.' 

' Fishes and aquatic animals, in general, should not be fed oftener 
than once a day, and then only so much as will be eaten clean." 

For further directions consult Dr. Hodge's chapter on " The Con- 
struction and Management of the Aquarium." 1 

i C. F. Hodge, Nature Study and Lije, pp. 393-404. 



138 



MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 



DOLL. The end-lap joint construction as suggested by Fig. 1 in 
the drawing of the doll is perhaps the best for all round purpose. The 
main advantage it has is that it can be very quickly constructed. It 
can be made larger if desired. The important thing is to work out 

the several parts in proper propor- 
tion so as not to look grotesque, 
unless such is desired. If so, a great 
deal of amusement can be gotten 
from them. The best way to obtain 
the proper proportion is to measure 
the human body and reduce to the 
size desired. Such dolls well pro- 
portioned and constructed make ex- 
cellent models for the drawing room. 
Fig. 2 of the drawing on page 1 1 9 
shows a construction that is more 
difficult than Fig. 1 and less difficult 
than Fig. 2 on the opposite page. 
This slip joint construction (Fig. 2) 
is a good opportunity for an exer- 
cise in tool processes. Good joints 
must be made if the dolls are to 
look well and work properly. For 
suggestions concerning the construc- 
tion and assembling of the parts see 
page 118. If the doll is to be fairly 
large and to do much service, small 
carriage bolts to hold the parts to- 
gether are desirable ; or, if dies are 
available, bolts can be made from heavy wire. A thread can be cut 
at one end, and the other end upset, and a slotted head cut with the 
hack saw. This, with the use of a screw driver, will admit of setting 
in the nut below the surface of the wood. Bolts at the shoulders and 
hips should extend the full width of the doll. 

The facial expressions can be varied. They can be painted on by 




DOLL 



139 



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the boys talented in this line. Various costumes with which to dress 
the dolls can also be worked out by the classes. Mrs. Laura Starr's 
book on "Dolls" offers excellent suggestions for correlation with school 
subjects such as geography and history. 



140 



MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 




DAVENPORT AND CHAIR. For general suggestions on furni- 
ture construction see page xxi. The furniture shown above is a 
type of construction usually made. It should not be made, because 
it lacks the necessary bracing and will therefore go to pieces quickly 
after being used. 

The davenport (Fig. 1) is the same type of construction as that 
of the morris chair on pages 110 and 111. The rails can be gained 
into the legs as suggested for the morris chair. If this is done, the 
seat will be §" longer, since the legs will be moved out just the thick- 
ness of the two side rails. The drawing herewith shown is for use 
without the cushion. 

If a cushion is used, the seat should be somewhat lower than the 
top edge of the rails, so as to make a pocket for the cushion. The rails 
will be ^" lower, as suggested in the drawing, so that the top of the 
cushion will be the proper seating height. 

To assemble, first nail the legs to the ends of the seat with one brad 
in each leg. Next nail on the cross rails, and then the front and back 
rails. After it is carefully squared up, nail on the arms, and, lastly, 
the back rail even with the top of the arms. 

If a divan is desired reduce to about one-half the length. To 
do so, simply deduct the same amount from all of the long pieces ; for 
instance, if the seat is to be 5^" the top rail should be 7" and the other 
rails 7^", the amount deducted being 5". 

Cushions will add considerable interest to the problem. For 
directions concerning the making of the cushions see the suggestions 
given on pages 1 1 and 111. 



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the back, which is lowered and fastened to the legs, acts as a brace 
in the other direction. 



142 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 

PLAN OF HOUSE ARRANGEMENT. Simple ordinary homes 
must be thought of in planning for the house. Various arrange- 
ments of the rooms can be considered ; for instance the pantry can 
come between the dining room and kitchen, with the bathroom in 
the middle of the house; or the boxes can be turned so that the 
length of the front rooms runs across the width of the house, thus 
making the front of the house wider than the back. Practical con- 
veniences will determine the arrangement of the rooms, such as 
having the pantry adjoining the kitchen and the kitchen next to the 
dining room. Not only must each room be a unit in itself, but all 
the rooms must be related so as to obtain unity in appearance and 
in the arrangement of the house. The one-floor plan, as shown in the 
drawing, has been found to be a very practical plan for a study of 
interior arrangement and decoration. Five packing boxes of similar 
size are used, one of which is sawed in two, one part being used for 
the pantry and one for the bathroom. Simplification of the problem 
necessitates the rooms to be all one size or at least all one height. 
The tops of the boxes are not used. This leaves the whole house open 
at the top so as to make the arrangement of the furnishings most con- 
venient. If desired the boxes can be separated enough so as to leave 
a space between the rooms which can be used for closets. If very 
little floor space is available, put the living room, bedroom, and bath- 
room on the second floor. In this case one side of each room can be 
left open and access to the second floor can be had by means of a stair- 
case of cardboard or thin wood. The boxes should be arranged so as 
to obtain good proportions in length, width, and height of the rooms. 
If large boxes only are available they may be divided into rooms by 
the use of cardboard or thin wood. A certain scale should be deter- 
mined upon and then adhered to in every detail. The proportioning 
of everything to a scale affords excellent correlation with arithmetic. 

If all of the furnishing is to be of paper and cardboard, one-eighth 
size or 1^" to each foot has been found to be most satisfactory. 
This will make use of boxes or rooms about 18"x27" and an 8" 
or 9" doll. One-sixth size or 2" to the foot is best, however, if 
bristol board or cardboard is to be used, but if ordinary manila draw- 



PLAN OF HOUSE ARRANGEMENT 



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ing paper only is available, one-twelfth size or 1" to the foot is 
best. In this case a 6" doll will be used and the rooms will be about 
14" x 18". The drawing has been planned with the thought of 
having the furnishings made of wood and a scale of one-sixth has been 



144 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 

selected as the smallest size practical. If wood is used for the furni- 
ture, a smaller size than that specified on the drawings should not be 
used, otherwise satisfactory results are not possible. From an eco- 
nomical standpoint, it has been found that packing boxes for the 
rooms one-eighth size can be more readily obtained from the mer- 
chants, and cigar boxes and cereal boxes can be utilized to better 
advantage in this size; but as previously said, if wood is to be the 
material used, the making of furniture this one-eighth size is not prac- 
ticable from an educational standpoint. If plenty of space is avail- 
able and economy in materials is unnecessary, then a one-fourth size 
is most suitable. If packing boxes are not desired, and plenty of 
lumber and a workshop are available, the house can be built in the 
shop. With advanced pupils actual house construction to scale can 
be planned and worked out, but with the younger children this is not 
desirable. One-half inch or one-quarter inch boards should be used. 
Porches may be added and a removable roof may be put on. 

Where paper and cardboard have been used, this work in the second 
and third grades has been most successful. In the higher grades the 
work with these materials is considered by the older children as 
mere doll play, but when wood has been used for the furniture, the 
higher grades, especially the fifth and sixth, have regarded such work 
as real, even though it is in miniature. 

A school superintendent after observing this work said, " I do not 
know who was most interested, the children or the teacher. When 
one considers the lessons learned in common-sense application of 
everyday problems in furnishing, one cannot but be impressed with 
the educational value of such work." Much inexpensive material 
can be obtained outside of school and much work done at home, 
such as table covers and portieres stenciled, rugs woven, mattresses, 
pillows, and cushions upholstered, and clothing made for the dolls. 

A few words of caution are necessary; avoid attempting more 
work than can be satisfactorily finished, avoid long and difficult pro- 
cesses, else discouragement will result. Attempt only those things 
that can be readily and easily made, and always make it possible 
that the children will have something to show for their effort. 



INDEX 



Aeroplane, 100 

Animals with moving parts, 78, 80, 102, 120 

Animal traps, 26, 90 

Aquaria, 134 

Bagatel board, 130 

Banjo, 4, 38 

Barrel traps, 26, 90 

Bats for peggy or tip-cat, 60 

Bean-bag games, 1 6 

Beds, 4, 112 

Bench, tool, xxiii 

Benches, rustic, 4, 18 

Birds, 78, 102 

Bird houses, 4, 88 

Blacksmith boys, 54 

Boats, vi, vii, xi, 4, 28, 122 

Bolts, xix 

Bow gun, 74 

Box, 44 

Box traps, 26, 90 

Breeding cages, 86, 1 34 

Bridge boards, 68 

Butterfly, 6 

Butterfly top, 2 

Buzzer, 10 

Cardboard furniture, 143 

Carron board; 64 

Case for mounting insects, 1 04 

Cement, xxi 

Chairs, 4, 18, 110, 140 

Checkers, 130 

Chess, 130 

Chicks with worm, 54 

Chinese drum, 99 

Cigar box problems, 4 

Clickers, 96 

Climbing jacks, 50 

Clogging jack, 52 



Clothespin blacksmiths, 54 

Clothespin jack, 48 

Color tops, 2 

Coping saw, xxiv 

Cradle, 4, 112 

Crokinole board, 64 

Croquet game board, 64 

Cushion for chairs and bed, 110, 112 

Daggers, 56 

Dancing jacks, 48, 52 

Darts, 76 

Davenport, 4, 18, 110, 140 

Dining-room chairs, 4, 1 08, 1 40 

Dinkey birds, 78 

Disc tops, 2 

Dolls, xx, 118, 138 

Drill, primitive string, 10 

Elastic pistols, 22 
Elastic power boats, 28 
Elastic sling-shot, 22 
Eccentric running wheels, 20, 24 

Falling ladder, 82 

Falling seesaw, 82 

Falling teeter, 82 

Fencing rods, xxiv, 62 

Fifes, 38 

Figure-four traps, 26 

Flying tops, 6 

Furniture, xxi, 4, 18, 108, 1 10, 112, 140, 143 

Garden labels, 1 2 
Garden signs, 1 2 
Garden sticks, 12 
Garden tools, xxv, 1 1 4 
Garden trellis, 12 
Glider, 100 
Grasshoppers, 120 
Guns, 22, 74. 99 



145 



146 



INDEX 



Happy jack windmills, 37 
Hockey pucks, 72 
Hockey shin guards, 72 
Hockey sticks, 72 
Hoes, 114 
House plan, 142 
Humming bird, 38 
Hurdle, 128 

Insect bottle, 30 

Insect mounting case, 104 

Insect nets, 30 

Jacks, 48, 50, 52, 54 
Jointed dolls, 118, 138 
Jumping jacks, 50 
Jumping standard, 1 28 

Kaleidoscopes, 14 
Knives, 56 

Label, garden, 12 
Lever movements, 54 
Looms, 84, 132 

Manual training materials, xvi 

Map puzzles, 44 

Marble games, 68 

Marble rakes, 68 

Minnow nets, 30 

Mounting case for nature-study work, 104 

Mother-hubbard windmill, 34 

Musical instruments, 4, 38 

Nails, xix 

Nature-study apparatus, xxv, 12, 30, 86, 104, 134 

Nets, 30 

Paddle-wheel boats, 28 

Peggies, 58 

Peggy bats, 60 

Pendulum movements, 78, 80 

Pistols, 22 

Plant labels, 12 

Plant sticks, 12 

Plant trellis, 12 

Plug top, 2 

Pole jack, 52 

Polliwog nets, 30 



Popgun, 99 
Post-card box, 44 
Post-card picture puzzles, 44 
Press for nature-study work, 104 
Primitive drill, 10 

Quoits, 94 

Rake, garden, 1 14 
Rake, marble, 68 
Rattler, 96 

Ring-toss games, 8, 94 
Roller coasters, 106, 126 
Roller -looms, 132 
Root cages, 86, 134 
Rpque boards, 64 
Rowboats, 28 
Running grasshoppers, 1 20 
Running wheels, 20, 24 
Rustic furniture, 18 

Sailboats, 122 

Sand-box for playground, 116 

Sawyer, 80 

Scissors jack, 48 

Screws, xx 

Seesaw for playground, 116 

Seesaw, falling, 82 

Shinney stick, 72 

Shin guards, 72 

Shovel, 114 

Sign, garden, 12 

Sling shot, 22 

Snow shovel, 115 

Solitaire, 66 

Spreader for insects, 104 

Stick, hockey and shinney, 72 

Stick, garden, 12 

Stilts, 70 

String musical instruments, 38 

Swaying figures, 80 

Swings, 42 

Swiss dinkey bird, 78 

Swords, 56, 62 

Tables, 4, 18, 108 
Target, 74 

Teeter, playground, 1 1 6 
Teeter, falling, 82 



INDEX 



147 



Tip-cats, 58 
Tip-cat bats, 60 
Tools, xxiii 
Tops, 2 
Traps, 26, 90 
Trellis plant, 1 2 

Ukelele, 41 

Vaulting pole, 1 28 
Vaulting standard, 1 28 
Vivaria, 86, 134 



Wagon, 124, 126 
Washstands, 4 
Weaving, 84, 132 
Wheels, xx, 106 
Wheelbarrow, 124 
Whirligig, 6 
Whistles, 38 

Whistling instruments, 38 
Windmills, ix, 34 
Wrestlers, 23, 54 

Zither, 38 



Printed in the United States of America. 



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4. Well planned treatment of language and grammar. Language training is the 
main purpose of the series. Training in English grammar is given its proper 
place in the course. It is introduced and emphasized at the right time. 

5. Reviews. There is ample provision for review work. Every new principle is 
developed with a sufficient number of exercises for practice and review. Cu- 
mulative reviews are also provided. 

The success with which English Spoken and Written has been 
used indicates that it endures well the test of use. 



THE MACMILLAN COMPANY 

BOSTON NEW YORK DALLAS 

CHICAGO SAN FRANCISCO ATLANTA 



The Health Series of Physiology and Hygiene 

By M. V. O'SHEA 

Professor of Education, University of Wisconsin ; Author of 
" Dynamic Factors in Education," etc., and 

J. H. KELLOGG 

Superintendent of The Battle Creek Sanitarium ; Author of 
"Man, The Masterpiece," etc. 



Health Habits $.45 The Body in Health . . . $.65 

Health and Cleanliness . . .55 Making the Most of Life . .65 



The O'Shea and Kellogg Health Series of Physiology and Hy- 
giene is devoted to the education of children for health. It presents a 
complete course of instruction, covering every phase of the child's 
physical health and welfare. These books and the lessons in each book 
have been written in the fullness of knowledge of the subject and with 
a deep and sympathetic understanding of the nature and the needs of 
children. 

The characteristic features are : 

i. The lessons encourage children to form health habits. They supplement the 
instruction given in physical training, play, and exercise toward the formation 
of habits of posture; and they establish the child in the right habits of bodily 
maintenance, rest, recreation, and personal hygiene. 

2. The lessons harmonize the health work of the school, the home, and the com- 
munity. They teach children also how to be of service to themselves and 
others in emergencies. 

3. In these lessons children are taught the elementary facts and principles of 
physiology and hygiene. They are taught to understand with sympathy the 
machinery of the human body, its needs and processes, its purposes and func- 
tions ; and they are taught to build up the fortifications and defences of the 
body against disease. 

The Health Series of Physiology and Hygiene is adapted in 
every feature for use in elementary schools. The four books make a 
complete and noteworthy course of instruction. Each book is, how- 
ever, complete in itself and can be used independently. 



THE MACMILLAN COMPANY 

BOSTON NEW YORK DALLAS 

CHICAGO SAN FRANCISCO ATLANTA 



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